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No Name 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
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Submitted By: Levi Call on Feb 18, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the long line that starts on the steep, featured rock just to the left of the large Slabby section where all the guides put their clients on the easy routes. It's getting polished but is still an awesome route. Bottom draw needs to be cleaned from the group up with or without a rope.

Onsight SPOILER:
Pull onto the ledge after the first awkward roof and then it's all about managing the pump. The crux is at the end and requires a big move off a small right crimp to a decent but hard to see left hand hold. if the crimp is too small for your liking then go for the dyno from the better, lower holds.

Location 

Inbetween "Em & Ems" and "Hot Dragon"

Protection 

The book says 7 bolts and two slings. I didn't count how many I used but it would be a good idea to take more than you think you need. Bolts are a reasonable distance apart. But falls are clean.


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By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 10, 2015

Loved it. Long, huge moves on giant holds, good rests, and a full value finish to the anchors.

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