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No Name Road 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Perry Beckham, Tim Holwill March 1986
Page Views: 1,417
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Aug 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Description 

No Name Road is an outstanding route with a bold feel to it due to some slightly runout sections and a high start with no pro. Start up the route where Even Steven and several other routes begin and traverse an easy ramp (5.7 or 5.8) right till the ramp ends and a bolt can be clipped on the right face. Continue straight up the face past a few more bolts and the crux to an intermediate rap anchor. Climb past this anchor to a big roof and make some gymnastic moves to the top. Clean the route down to the first anchor and then re-thread the rope to get down with one 60m.

Location 

This route has the same start as Even Steven up an easy corner to a right angling ramp.

Protection 

There are 9 or 10 bolts on this route and two anchors, one at the top and one for rapping back down with a 60m rope.


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By Chai
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jul 19, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

Bringing small-med nuts and/or cams lowers the sketch-factor. There's still a bit of a no-fall zone at the start, but smaller. Above, there's a small run-out by the large angled R-facing flake behind which it's possible to place a piece (though I don't know if it'd hold much).

A 70m rope will get you from the top to the ground on rope stretch, and though there's a fair bit of friction at the top, it's then possible to TR it.

Anyway, pretty cool line!
By Seanald
Jun 26, 2017
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

This climb felt like an incredible adventure... really, really exciting for a sport route. The bolting makes Smith Rock seem soft. We did the '12d' direct start (~V5 boulder problem) rather than risking a leg breaking fall on the original traverse to get up to the first bolt. There are still some pretty significant runouts to keep you on your toes higher up (think ~30+ foot winger potential if you blew it on the easier stuff). Tie knots in your rope for the 35 meter rap and angle climbers right to get down.

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