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no name (on Wolf Wall) 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: B Wolfe, K Shephard (2009)
Season: not summer
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: bernard wolfe on Nov 1, 2009

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Description 

a mixed route, immediately to the right of Lone Wolf....

Begin with good holds on vertical rock to a position under a little roof forming an alcove. The roof has a short hand crack through it....and is actually more of a bulge than a roof. Lots of swirly, psuedo-metamorphically altered sandstone bedding layers in this lower portion

Pull around bulge and onto easy ground, then to wide slots leading to a big ledge. Stepping up off the ledge one reaches the first of the bolts. Up this bare short face to the beginning of the more overhanging upper wall section. Two bolts in this section, near its beginning. undercling, crimp, and sidepull up to very nice holds. Leaving the last bolt, the finish section has some of the most nicely formed holds you will ever grasp. Dog bones, sculpted edges, scoops, baseballs, softballs, handlebars, levers, reach-throughs, gentle crimps, blades, fins....the last section is a candystore of perfectly shaped holds....all the way to the very last hold (aim for the highest spot on the top of the cliff)

Location 

to the right of Lone Wolf... 10 feet perhaps. This section of cliff has a small cave and adjacent (R), chossy-looking chimney feature up high.....about at the wall's midpoint. This route is to the left of that feature

Protection 

mixed, 4 bolts, light but well-sorted rack. Share a pair of ring anchors with the route to the left, Lone Wolf...


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