REI Community
search
Supercrack Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
24 Variation T 
24 Unknown T 
3AM Crack T 
? T 
Amaretto Corner T 
Anasazi T 
Bad Rad Duality T 
Binge and Purge T 
Bongo Flake T 
Coyne Crack T 
Fat Free T 
Fingers In A Lightsocket T 
Fledge TR 
Gorilla T 
Incredible Hand Crack T 
International Affair T 
Keyhole Flake T 
King Sooper T 
Left Affair T 
Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 
No Name Crack T 
Nuclear Waste T 
On-Slot, The T 
Painted Pony T 
Pigs in a Slot T 
Pink Flamingo T 
Pringles T 
Savelli Crack T 
super bubbushka T 
Super Surprised T 
Supercrack of the Desert T 
Supershack 
Too Much Cake T 
Triple Jeopardy T 
Twin Cracks T 
Unknown T,TR 
Unknown Left of The Wave T 
Unknown on far left side of wall T 
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 
Wave, The T 
Wild Works of Fire T 
Zow T 
Unsorted Routes:

No Name Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 6,368
Submitted By: Matt Pesce on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (123)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jon

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This fine big hands crack is located just left of Gemini (Twin ) cracks. A dark varnished corner begins with a short rectangular pillar. All sizes from hands to fists and maybe some Odub for small folks.

Protection 

A lot of #2 and #3 Camalot, two #4s, and 1 #1 Camalot at the top as a last placement. I loved this route.


Photos of No Name Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Won't be smiling before too long
Won't be smiling before too long
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic!
Classic!
Rock Climbing Photo: No Name Crack
No Name Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: No Name Crack
No Name Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: this is a great climb!
this is a great climb!
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg K at the base of No Name Crack
Greg K at the base of No Name Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: The cruxes are 1/3 and 2/3 up the route at wide sp...
The cruxes are 1/3 and 2/3 up the route at wide sp...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb follows No Name crack, ~2001. Photo by J...
Tony Bubb follows No Name crack, ~2001. Photo by J...
Rock Climbing Photo:
BETA PHOTO

Comments on No Name Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Nov 25, 2001

This route is to the left of 3 am crack and also starts on a small pillar in a right-facing dihedral. It can be distinguished from 3 am by being a bit wider and lacking a roof. Another beauty of a climb.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 15, 2002

I liked this route even better than Incredible Hand Crack or 3AM Crack. Look for the no hands rest (which I missed) halfway up. It can be done with a 60 meter rope, barely, but be very careful--one or two downclimbing moves might be necessary. The smaller pillar at the start is loose, so pull gingerly!
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 21, 2005

i've heard not just a few people refer to this as the "4am crack" - its similar but slightly bigger than 3am, right facing corner, etc. - mayber better than yet another nameless crack at the creek -
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 17, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This was one of my favorite climbs of our trip. I have big hands, so it was more of an "incredible hand crack" for me than was the real "Incredible Hand Crack."
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 6, 2008

Indistinguishable from 3am crack. They're the same!!
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 24, 2013

Sustained and clean...highly recommended
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 8, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This thing is fantastic for those of us blessed with big hands. Bring a healthy helping of #2s and #3s (I enjoyed having about 5 of each). This thing is sustained. A .4 or so slots nicely on the little crack on the left to save a piece at the start. A #1 will fit in at the top.
By Matt Pierce
From: Denver, CO
Oct 13, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Take a few #4's for the starting block and the small pods. Lots of #3's for the sustained hands. We used a 70m but surprisingly had quite a bit of rope left.
By Mark van Eijk
Aug 13, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Just as good or better than the named classics at supercrack buttress. Big hands in a corner forever with a few surprises. Plenty of 2s and 3s with a 4 for one of the pods and a 1 for the top. Get on it!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About