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No Name 5.7 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Li Shu, Lu Bin 05/2002
Page Views: 12
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Sep 12, 2016

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Description 

The bolts on this route are rusty and almost certainly of dubious integrity! The hangers appear to be stainless, but the bolt heads are fully rusted.

Start up the monster holds until they suddenly disappear. Get your fingers behind a flake then step left. Continue up slopey holds on the slab with a bit of runout. At the ledge, move left and climb up behind the flake. A stupid number of anchors here, none of which will keep you from hitting the ledge - but it's super easy! Good bolts at the anchor on the ledge above.

There is a second pitch to this that goes at 5.9, but since the 2nd pitch of Red Wall is also the same grade, climbs the same wall on better rock, and has solid bolts, you shouldn't even consider climbing it.

Location 

Left side of the main face, wanders up the slab and behind the huge detached flake

Protection 

Rusty bolts!


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