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No Mystery Here 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,595
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jul 2, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Heidi Dale on TR, No Mystery Here.


No Mystery Here is the long, blunt arete on the formation just uphill from the Steeple, with a small pine tree right at the base. A long cruise, this route is a lot of fun. It's a 135 feet to the ground, so drag a second rope to rap.


13 bolts plus anchors. 2 ropes if you rappel from its anchor.

Photos of No Mystery Here Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: No Mystery Here.
No Mystery Here.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dillon almost to the top.
Dillon almost to the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jessica Jenks on No Mystery Here.
Jessica Jenks on No Mystery Here.
Rock Climbing Photo: A babe on "No Mystery Here"
A babe on "No Mystery Here"
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping off No Mystery Here (climber in the backgr...
Rapping off No Mystery Here (climber in the backgr...
Rock Climbing Photo: A little higher on No Mystery Here
A little higher on No Mystery Here
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up No Mystery Here.
Starting up No Mystery Here.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 11, 2014
By Brian T. Wandzilak
Aug 29, 2002

The longest single pitch route that I have ever done. I was pretty much spent after this one. The last few bolts are run out. But you are rewarded with a fantastic view of the Mummy Range off to the west in RMNP. This route is also an excellent example of Monastery style climbing.
By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Feb 10, 2003

No Mystery Here is on the Magical Mystery Tower. If you don't want to carry two ropes up to rap off this, and have a 60m rope, you can scramble to the other side (NW) of the Tower and rap off the anchors at the top of a couple of 5.14s. Tommy C. has the FA on them and it is the only way I'll ever get to inspect that level of route, up close! :-) Since the routes are so stiff there's rarely any traffic on that side. You lose all contact with the rock after the first 5 feet of the rappel until you touch down on the other side of the gully. You can then go down about 25 yards and walk through back to the outer gates.
By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Feb 10, 2003

The gully that you land in if you go off the back is the Vestibule and you land at the base of Tabula Rasa. The passage back to the Gates is called Inner Sanctum.
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 23, 2003

This is a great, moderate route that gets your attention near its end. A bit spicy at the last two bolts even at (7), as its angle and bolt spacing increase, the pitch length kicks in (135'), and consequence to the epidermis should you peel, ran thru my mind. The sharp, abrasive nature of this rock added an element of caution to my climbing, as I like my skin just the way it is. Great friction though, and no need to worry about slipping.
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jun 19, 2003

With a 60 meter rope, you can rap SW off the route's anchors (b/t MM Tower and The Steeple), continue past a ledge, and get far enough down to chimney (easily) the rest of the way to the base.
By mary
Jul 30, 2003

This route was pretty cool - you can be creative with the rappel - the ledge to the left of the climb will get you and your second down and then chimney down the other side. plenty of good stuff to gawk at back there... a guy named rick really helped me out by stick clipping the first bolt... All the first bolts at the Monastary seem to be REALLY high up... If you are a gutless wonder like myself - I highly recommend a stick clip or a crash pad and good spotter!
By Rob Migliore
Jun 25, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There are some new routes in the area since the RMNP/Estes Park book. I think we wound up on a route to the right, which got thin. Not very good quality rock. Definitely alpine. I can think of many other more enjoyable 5.7 sport routes.
By DanMoore
Aug 22, 2004

I really didn't like this climb. Maybe it was the weather (ominous) or my condition (tired) but it felt like this was one move, repeated 100 times. Sustained, but the same move (reach for a pebble, position feet, stand up. Repeat).
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2005

The easiest descent with a 60m rope: rap diagonally right 35' to the anchor atop La Maudite/Stone Smoked Porter. From here, rap 95' to the ground.
By Jason Shatek
Jul 28, 2005

I thought this climb was a bit sandbagged, it seemed harder than 5.7 but the route is nice and sustained for the grade and long
By Nick Fury
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 25, 2009

This route was sick. A great warm-up for some of the harder stuff in the area, Super Long, and mostly sustained 5.7.
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Sep 8, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The mental crux is getting to the first bolt, or the second to last bolt - which feels hard to clip and way out there by the time you get to it. I wouldn't say this is sustained though. Lots of rests and easy climbing on this one - just stay a little left of the bolts. The bolts seemed to be oddly placed - forcing the line away from natural features. A LOT of Easy fun climbing to be had here, but nothing spectacular.

  • ** A 70m Rope will get you down with about 5 ft (or less) of downclimbing ***
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Dec 11, 2014

In June 2014, Dale Haas and I replaced the cold shut hangers on the anchor bolts with SS hangers. We added SS quicklinks and rings. The American Safe Climbing Association - ASCA( provided the hardware. They appreciate your support.

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