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Blood for Oil S 
Camouflage T 
Diagonal T 
Eight Clicks to Saigon T,S 
Front Lines T 
GI Joe Does Barbie T,S 
Kasserine Pass T,S 
Lizzard Warrior S 
Monkey Lust T 
No More War T 
Nobody Here But Us Chickens S 
Nuclear Polka T 
Old Bolt Route T,S 
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Unknown 4 T,S 

No More War 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Craig Luebben
Page Views: 1,833
Submitted By: Tyler Jones on May 15, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Brooke at the crux.


This route is about 50 feet up to the right from "Diagonal" and is just below a small tree on the face. It can be done as one or two pitches. This first pitch by itself is also a good route.

Begin with a great 5.8 flared crack up to the tree. Belay on the right side of the tree at a good ledge if you want to, or continue up on the left side of the tree for one long pitch. At about 20 feet above the tree, follow a small crack with good finger jams going up-and-right. Now test your smearing skills on the face with 2 bolts (crux .10a). Finish above the bolts on a horizontal edge and traverse left to the 2-bolt anchor.

Double-rope rappel to the ground. Another well protected route worth doing. Perfect if you are just getting into 5.10 leads.


If you do this as one long pitch... bring plenty of cams, no larger than a #1 Camalot. Some wired stoppers are helpful, and there's a couple of spots perfect for a CAMP tri-cam. Also bring 2 quickdraws for the bolts on the upper face. TWO-ROPE rappel (150 ft).

Photos of No More War Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting that nice rail.
Getting that nice rail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beetle Bailey, not as easy as it looks.
Beetle Bailey, not as easy as it looks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Better holds than it appears from below.
Better holds than it appears from below.
Rock Climbing Photo:

Comments on No More War Add Comment
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By Ripley Casdorph
Jan 24, 2003

The first pitch is ok for the grade, but the second pitch is great. Worth doing the first pitch to get to the crux at the top.

Second pitch belay is big enough for three people. If you climb it with one rope, you can rap to the tree, but it is a pretty crappy rap to start by getting around the tree..
By Cale Csizmadi
From: Colorado Springs
Mar 9, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great one pitch route! All you need is a handful of quick draws some small [chocks], BD-swedges and a few micro-cams. The route makes you think and keeps you on your toes. Gotta love smearing.
By allen simons
Nov 6, 2004

I loved leading this the first time I did it. It is a challenging 8+/9- flaring crack. Just a note, the crack may seem fairly easily protected with small nuts or cams but in 2003 I was part of a rescue that hauled someone out after their gear pulled out of the flare. I never did pitch 2, instead after the flare at the tree I traversed right to the belay 10 feet right of the [Diagonal] and continued up routes there.
By Stacy Bender
Nov 8, 2004

Note: Read the route description better than I did. I hadn't been on granite for a long time and knew I was going to struggle on this, but after aiding to the 2nd bolt, and taking two ugly falls trying to get to the third, I thought this was the biggest sandbag in the world. I realized later that I had incorrectly jumped on the 2nd pitch of Blood For Oil (5.12a). Sometimes the obvious just doesn't sink in right away.
By allen simons
Jan 31, 2005

The photo of this route is not quite correct. The upper pitch is" No More War "but the crack at the start is a separate route called "Beetle Bailey" and is rated 5.8.
By Dougald MacDonald
Apr 30, 2007

Enjoyable, varied climbing. Very reasonable to link as one long pitch. The 5.9 crack at the start (Beetle Bailey) is quite tricky and interesting, and the upper face crux is excellent. Save a long, thin sling: After the second bolt, you can reach up and sling a perfect horn to protect the last hard move.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2010

In MNO, the initial flaring crack portion has a lot more "bite" to it than it may look from the ground. My advice is best be solid at 5.8 and a bit more before hopping on to lead this thing. Great fun though! (There is an obvious tree at the end of the initial, flaring crack with slings on it if you wish to quite here an top rope.)
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 13, 2011

Fun route. The initial crack is definitely 5.9 and is a little difficult to protect. After the tree, it's a pretty easy run to the bolts on the face, where the crux occurs.
By goatboywonder Patrick
Jan 27, 2012

You can get down with a single 60m if you angle to climber's right and aim for a juniper growing in a dihedral. You will run out of rope right at the tree and have to do an easy, 8 foot downclimb.
By David Garancosky
From: State College, PA
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Super fun. Nuts, hexes and one 00. Y'all are lucky to have this so close.

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