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Gully Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Actual Porn Star S 
Beetle Juice S,TR 
Booty and the Hoe Fish S,TR 
Bunny Arete T,TR 
Bunny Corner T,TR 
Bunny Hop S,TR 
Crack, The T,TR 
Dolní Žleb S,TR 
Former Rock Star S,TR 
Impatience S,TR 
Manny the Woolly Mammoth S,TR 
Manny's Lament S,TR 
No More Mr Nice Guy S,TR 
Offwidth, The T,TR 
Red Dwarf S,TR 
Sid the Sloth S,TR 
Tree Crack T,TR 

No More Mr Nice Guy 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Peter Gernassnig & Bob Cartwright
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: rocknice2 on Sep 21, 2010  with updates from peter gernassnig

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Base of route on left.

Description 

Climb up right facing corner 5.10b to a slab and establish yourself in high shallow corner [crux]. Grab the arete on the left and high step above the last bolt.
An easy 5.8 variation finish climbs out left in another right facing corner.

Location 

Right wall inside the gully

Protection 

5 bolts and top anchors


Photos of No More Mr Nice Guy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: No More Mr Nice Guy
BETA PHOTO: No More Mr Nice Guy
Rock Climbing Photo: New look with downed tree. Tough exit on V face at...
New look with downed tree. Tough exit on V face at...
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow just right of the foilage on the pictures l...
Follow just right of the foilage on the pictures l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of No More Mr Nice Guy 5.10a-b Base in line w...
Base of No More Mr Nice Guy 5.10a-b Base in line w...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fallen tree where route used to start
Fallen tree where route used to start
Rock Climbing Photo: Hard to see route, look at mid left  to see a chal...
Hard to see route, look at mid left to see a chal...

Comments on No More Mr Nice Guy Add Comment
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By rocknice2
From: Montreal, Quebec
Sep 23, 2013

For over 15 years it was thought that the direct finish was a variation to the route. This is incorrect, that's exactly how the original line went. The variation is the easy dihedral to the left, off route in my opinion.