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No Man Knows the Hour
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 8
votes
Routes in Upper Theology Crag
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Beggar's Banquet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fade to Black S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Frizzle Fry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lazarus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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No Man Knows the Hour S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Titanium Albatross S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Trial of Faith TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trouble With Normal, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unnamed (Water Jump Start) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unnamed 5.12a S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unnamed 5.9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Mark Buntaine & Jan Roestel, 2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,603 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | mbuntaine on Aug 15, 2016 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Prepare yourself for some steep and pumpy climbing that fills in nicely the menu of routes available at Theology Crag.
Begin the climb by pulling over a steep, honeycombed block protected by the first bolt. Move through a couple of delicate face moves aided by a key pocket. After gaining the ledge, scramble up about ten feet to the next bolt. Here is where the fun really begins.
Work your way up the obvious knife blade, using both sides until you get to a small cave at the top of the major weakness. Click the bolt to your left and get ready for the crux. Power out left and pull past the overhanging crux using a key undercling in a deep dish above. Clip the next bolt and gain a crucial rest stance. Continue moving up the steep and pumpy upper face, using the arete on the left, past three more bolts to an exciting finish below the anchors shared with Unnamed 5.9.
A 70m rope will get you all the way to the base near the Live Oak tree. A 60m rope will only get you to the base of the first bolt and you'll have to scramble down 15-20 feet (not hard) to the base.
Though some cleaning was done for the route, the middle section is always likely to be a bit gritty.
The first son of one member of the FA party was born 36 hours after the route was first led cleanly, which is how the route gets its name.
Historical note: Given that this is the natural rappel line for Unnamed 5.9, we knew this climb had likely been completed on top-rope. We recently met up with Hutch Axilrod, who first top-roped the line together with Pat Briggs, Tony Del Bechio and David Griffith III. They were developing lines on the blocks above and top-roped this line after some cleaning. Hutch notes that the first top-rope ascent was August 18, 1993 and the route was dubbed "Bat Boy" at the time because "about half way up I pulled a flake that revealed a bat inside a little cave which i tried to leave undisturbed and clean around it."
Begin the climb by pulling over a steep, honeycombed block protected by the first bolt. Move through a couple of delicate face moves aided by a key pocket. After gaining the ledge, scramble up about ten feet to the next bolt. Here is where the fun really begins.
Work your way up the obvious knife blade, using both sides until you get to a small cave at the top of the major weakness. Click the bolt to your left and get ready for the crux. Power out left and pull past the overhanging crux using a key undercling in a deep dish above. Clip the next bolt and gain a crucial rest stance. Continue moving up the steep and pumpy upper face, using the arete on the left, past three more bolts to an exciting finish below the anchors shared with Unnamed 5.9.
A 70m rope will get you all the way to the base near the Live Oak tree. A 60m rope will only get you to the base of the first bolt and you'll have to scramble down 15-20 feet (not hard) to the base.
Though some cleaning was done for the route, the middle section is always likely to be a bit gritty.
The first son of one member of the FA party was born 36 hours after the route was first led cleanly, which is how the route gets its name.
Historical note: Given that this is the natural rappel line for Unnamed 5.9, we knew this climb had likely been completed on top-rope. We recently met up with Hutch Axilrod, who first top-roped the line together with Pat Briggs, Tony Del Bechio and David Griffith III. They were developing lines on the blocks above and top-roped this line after some cleaning. Hutch notes that the first top-rope ascent was August 18, 1993 and the route was dubbed "Bat Boy" at the time because "about half way up I pulled a flake that revealed a bat inside a little cave which i tried to leave undisturbed and clean around it."
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