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Byrd's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel Dust T 
B-Team Arete S 
Byrd's Classic T 
Freebase T 
No Justice for Rodney T,S 
Scrubby Oaks Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

No Justice for Rodney 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: all year
Page Views: 427
Submitted By: AJ Onsight on Apr 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Classic E.A. climbing. first crux .11- hard crux on face above .12-

Location 

To the right of Byrd's Classic.

Protection 

#13 BD Stopper for first crux; you'll see it.


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By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Nov 5, 2010

Highly recommended. The final traverse over the void is sustained, airy, and excellent.

There are three cruxes IMO. Not sure where the #13 would go in the first, I think the bolts alone are adequate. For the middle crux, I would bring along a blue or yellow Alien-size to protect the moves before 3rd (?) bolt. If you are solid at the grade, you might not need it, though. Also, bring some full length runners for a couple clips.

The third crux is the final traverse right. I don't think there is a 5.12 move, but it's sustained and you'll be pumped before you even get to it. Milk the rests....

All in all, this climb was much better than I expected and a must-do for the visiting 5.12 climber.

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