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No Holds for Bonzo 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA: Mateo Pee Pee, Jim Schlinkmann 1985
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: Sean Nelb on Aug 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: The stemming corner in the middle.

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Bonzo might not have had much, but you will. No Holds offers a variety of finger jams, stemming, face climbing and even some possible chimneying all in one pitch. Rarely climbed, but definitely deserving of more attenion. Climb over a bulge and into the corner, following this to the top of the pitch. Unfortunately, this route is often grassy. It can be cleaned on rappel from the Potatoes Alien anchors.


Start in the acute-angled corner a few cracks left of Bloodguard and immediately left of Potatoes Alien.


small-med nuts, finger sized cams. Rappel anchor.

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By CodyE
From: Utah
Aug 3, 2015

This is a great route and is clean as of July 2015
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Sep 23, 2016

Another awesome stemming corner at the tower. Fairly clean 9/2016. Tricky start leads to sustained stemming. Some rest can be had up higher on the route.

Anchor replaced by Lee Terveen and Joel McKillop on 10/22/16.

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