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No Golf Shoes 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Erik Wolfe/Jason Chinchen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,082
Submitted By: MisterE Wolfe on Nov 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


The first pitch is 5.10a (.10c with direct start), and the second pitch is airy and pumpy. On the second pitch, many people now stay in the ramp until the second bolt before moving out onto the face - 5.10d-5.11a depending on which way you go.


This route is Just to the left of Tuff It Out. Either stem up the short dihedral to the right (PG), or do the more difficult direct start


p1: 5? bolts, chains
p2: ? bolts, slings?

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By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Nov 5, 2008

Sorry I don't remember much about the bolts or anchors on this route, please feel free to add info and I will update as I see it.

Thanks, Erik
By ferrells
Feb 2, 2009

i climbed it on saturday, and thought it was pretty awesome. thesenga gives it 10d, and im glad to see someone disagrees with that - i was pretty sure it was more like 11b or c. i thought the moves near the top were exciting, well-bolted, exposed and technical. unlike 95% of smith rock that climbs well, this route has no chalk on the upper pitch, making my work up there true onsighting (something i rarely have the opportunity to do around here with all the chalk). stepping off onto the seemingly featureless headwall from the comfy slabby crack is exhilarating.
all bolts looked good, as did the anchors. it was measured out just right - i made it to the ground with stretch in my 70m cord. bring fourteen or so draws to link it. i ran out and had to downclimb to scavenge in three spots.
By Jason Chinchen
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 14, 2010

Erik, is this the route I helped you bolt? I remember the second pitch being really fun.
By Bridger Mann-Wood
From: Madison, WI
Oct 13, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I did this route, and thought it was great. A bouldery start for 2-3 moves, and then really solid climbing through/around a small roof to the first set of anchors. I thought even with the bouldery start it was about 10c, but I'm pretty tall too which may have helped.

I linked the second pitch, and thought it was really, really excellent. No chalk, which was swell, and the moves super fun and sustained. I think about 11a or 10d.

Overall, a really good climb. Worth it.
By Erik Keever
Nov 17, 2015

Definitely put a * by the "lower off with a 70m" in the guide and tie a knot. If you leave any useful directionals, your belayer will almost certainly run out of rope.

My friends and I suspect that the difficulty of the start depends on the width of your hands rather than your height. The upper start jug necks down a lot inside, and my fat meat-paws do not fit in a way that can be pulled on.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Nov 18, 2015

Yeah, Jason - I just added you to the FA team - thanks for the reminder.

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