No Ethics Required
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What a great climb!
This is a good face route that climbs thin edges through a bulge. The route is pretty sustained 5.9, with one crux at the fourth piton, involving tricky and thin footwork. This fourth piton is a bit difficult to clip for shorter climbers. It is definitely much harder route than Son of Tidrick's
or Place in the Sun
This route is located on the Finger Face, just left of Son of Tidrick's
. Climb the Tourist Gully and belay from the third large eyebolt. From here, you step down a bit, then traverse right about 20 feet to reach the first ring-angle piton.
5 drilled pitons. 2 pin anchor.
Myong crimping her way up No Ethics.
Bill Weiss just below the crux.
Bill Weiss descends. He's just a little below the...
Bill Weiss just getting started.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 6, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fantastic, thin, sustained route! If you like Place in the Sun, this is the next level, and all the pins are exactly where they need to be.