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Witches' Tower
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It's My Swamp T 
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No Direction Home S 
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 
Pumpkin Eater 
Romancing the Stone T,S 
Scarecrow T 
Teenage Terrorists S 
Tese S 
Tipskin Jihad S 
War is Love S 
Wisk, The 
Witch Hunt 

No Direction Home 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Ron Olsen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,267
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 26, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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Finishing the roof.

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  • Description 

    Start just right of Tese. Climb up fun layback moves to a small roof. Clip a bolt and make a strenuous move up to the next clip. Power up and over the bigger roof to good holds. Power over the roof past six more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

    Protection 

    Ten clips will get you to a two bolt anchor.


    Photos of No Direction Home Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: No Direction Home.  Climb a steep thin crack and a...
    BETA PHOTO: No Direction Home. Climb a steep thin crack and a...

    Comments on No Direction Home Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By david goldstein
    Jul 28, 2006

    Quite good from the ground through the roof.
    By desbien
    From: seattle,wa
    Jul 30, 2007

    Good route! Best I've done at Sherwood. Really fun movement into the roof section.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 24, 2008
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    Good climb, missed the undercling under the roof and was happy to get the jugs after matchin' on those little crimps. Still, not harder than 11- unless you completely miss something.
    It was nice that all the routes went the distance now- it adds some quality and length to them and makes them all the more interesting. The upper arete on this one was fun too.
    By Aeon Aki
    Administrator
    Jul 18, 2010
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Tony B sums it up perfectly.

    I counted 12 + 2 to the top chains.
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    Jun 14, 2011

    I agree, really fun. An optimistic attitude will be rewarded. Might be a little height dependent.
    There's a lowering anchor one more bolt past the crux roof, which I unwittingly used, so can't comment on the upper part.
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Jul 11, 2011
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    It is possible to walk off to the west from the top of this route. As of now, it's quite steep, brushy ,and loose. That said, it's probably just as easy to rap...carefully.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Jun 14, 2012
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    It would have been better to easily clip the bolt at the roof from the stance below it, instead of clipping it off of the steep greasy sidepull (I didn't find the hidden jug until afterwards). Felt like an 11c clip with 5.10 climbing.

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