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No Country for Young Men 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Maurice Horn, Andrew Carson Feb. 11, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 809
Submitted By: Andrew Carson on Sep 10, 2009

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Approximate line.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The west end of the main south face is a steep varnished wall split by several cracks and fins. There is a small buttress separated from the face, forming a steep short gully between it and the wall.
On the main wall above this detached buttress one can see a crack with mottled white patches on its left side. The upper, steepest portion of the crack has a small aromatic bush at its base. The route climbs this crack and follows another crack up more laid back terrain to the unroping spot, in three pitches.
Start directly below the crack and climb a steep face to a broken area, passing the shrub and continuing to the abovementioned crack. Follow this feature to a comfortable belay ledge, being careful with a precarious-looking block as one pulls onto the belay. (The first ascent party kicked and prodded this block to check its relative security. While it didn't move, it has a delicate look to it.) 180'
Move to the left end of the ledge and climb a crack, clipping a ring wafer piton. Then, continue up enjoyable rock with several short headwalls to a belay shy of the top. 190'
Climb a short pitch, depending upon where the second belay was set up, to easy ground and the end of the route.
Scramble up and west to broad ledges which lead over to the drainage, and descend to the base of the route.

Location 

See description.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3".


Photos of No Country for Young Men Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Maurice Horn starting the second pitch of No Count...
Maurice Horn starting the second pitch of No Count...

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By Ben Townsend
Nov 24, 2016

This is a very esthetic line with fun climbing, marred only by a few sections of friable rock. I'm not sure there are any actual 5.8 moves, but the climbing on the first pitch is sustained and a bit heads-up -- well protected, but watch for fragile flakes.

There are rappel stations, though I'd expect a high probability of rope hangups. If you want to have the option of rapping (with two ropes), take along two or three cordelettes or the equivalent to replace ancient or missing webbing. The station at the first belay is a piton, a jammed knot, and a slung horn; the one at the second belay is a ring piton and a stopper; the one at the top is two ring pins, currently without any webbing or rappel rings because I cut away a highly decayed death triangle.

We downclimbed the big central gully in the left-end slabs, which has a huge cairn at the top. The descent wasn't always obvious from above, but turned out to be uneventful.