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Black Bear Buttress
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No Country For Old Men 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A0 [details]
FA: Sean Cobourn and Eddie Medina June, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 260
Submitted By: Sean Cobourn on Jun 8, 2008

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Description 

Left of pitch 2 of Jacobbear, climb the left facing corner to the roof. Pull around left under the roof to an airy perch below another roof split by twin fat cracks. Pull this roof (crux) and climb the face above to a pair of rings. Two ropes needed for getting down and helpful for getting up due to rope drag issues.

Location 

Left of Black Bear Buttress is a 50 yard stroll to a smaller, scruffy looking cliff. At the first wall before heading down to the base of it, seek a vertical wall covered with incut holds and 2 bolts. This is the first pitch of Jacobbear. Climb this to a spacious ledge and a nice horizontal tree to bealay from. The nearest corner up to a small roof is pitch 2 of Jacobbear. Left of this is an obvious left facing corner capped by a roof. This is the route.

Protection 

Thin stuff for first half, big and small for second half. Only fixed gear is the anchors on top. Double ropes recommended.


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