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The Merlon
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No Climb for Old Men T 
Super Fortress T 

No Climb for Old Men 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1300', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: First known ascent: Ken Duncan, Mark Jenkins 2008
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Ken Duncan on Jun 14, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: No Climb for Old Men

Description 

No Climb for Old Men climbs the south arete of the Merlon in 12 pitches. A low crux traverses right through a steep headwall. The main crux comes in the mid portion of the climb where the arete becomes blank. Here tricky climbing leads up the left side of the arete with thoughtful pro. At the huge ledge just below the summit we traversed left one pitch before topping out but in hindsight there is probably a dihedral heading more directly to the summit from the right side of the ledge.

Descent: Rappel and down climb the east ridge or rappel Super Fortress.

Location 

South arete of the Merlon.

Protection 

Nuts and cams to 3"


Photos of No Climb for Old Men Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark on the lower crux of No Climb for Old Men.
Mark on the lower crux of No Climb for Old Men.
Rock Climbing Photo: No Climb for Old Men follows the left arete in fro...
BETA PHOTO: No Climb for Old Men follows the left arete in fro...

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