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Castle Rock - North Spur
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No Climb for Old Men 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pitch 1: Chris Barnes 2010 Pitch 2: Chris Barnes and Mike Engle
Page Views: 438
Submitted By: Phil on Jul 17, 2011

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Fun climb, but don't blow the second clip. Could ...

BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A tough couple moves off the ground and some getting to the last bolt. Might want to stick clip the second bolt because the first won't be enough to keep you off the slab below.

There is a second pitch that works it way up and right then finishes on the right side of a prominent pillar, 5.7. Not particularly great second pitch except the view might make it worth it.

Location 

Just left of the small chimney, this route goes up a face.

Protection 

8-ish bolts to bolted anchors of the first pitch. Chain anchors at the top of the second pitch allows you to get down to the first pitch anchors on "No Climb for Old Men"


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 2, 2017

I was happy to stick clip the second bolt!

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