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Upper Breadloaves - East
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No Cash Refunds 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 927
Submitted By: grk10vq on Oct 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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BETA PHOTO: Jeff climbing No Cash Refunds.

Description 

A fun, but short route up a slab to a thinning finger crack. Good moves, low commitment, and good protection.

Start in the small clearing at the base. Begin dead-center, with a short series of moves up a clean, blank slab. Catch a left facing flake and head to the crack proper.
Pull a bulge and get a rest before the final left-leaning finger crack. Stop on a big ledge at a sling anchor.

Early morning sun / afternoon shade.

Location 

This route sits on the far most northeast end of the Upper Breadloaves. It is directly right of the obvious corner, Lost Pioneers.

Protection 

A small, light rack and some medium stoppers. Fixed Sling chockstone anchor.


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By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Jun 18, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Definitely bring a smaller rack. I didn't, and that made things interesting. Had an extra #2 and #3 at the top. Haha.

I could swear this is much taller than 50ft though.

The top is a finger crack on slab. A lot of fun. Especially without my trusty cams! Got to practice my nut placing skills for sure. I also might have cheated, but I started way left off the ground. Much better than the intimidating slab...
By Jeremy Polk
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 9, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Northeast facing so good mid-day shade. Short but actually a fun route. I started a little right on the sweet flake and found that to be more fun than the plain slab. Used a #3 cam but the rest was small gear. Solid webbing up top to rap off.
By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Jul 28, 2014

You can down climb from this route by going straight south and with a 10 foot section of 5.5/6, be at the base of Stolen Thunder. Cool climb on a hot day!
By Scott Stevenson
From: SLC, Utah
Nov 22, 2014

I really liked this route. It was a little bit hard to find the start and know if I was getting on the right route. After hiking to the base and feeling unsure, I hiked back down and looked at it from the road with the guide book. That definitely reassured me. You climb up some features to get to a really nice left slanting thin hand crack. The 10 moves or so through this crack are really great.
By SThal
From: Logan, UT
Sep 8, 2015

There are chains for easy descent, but they are pretty far left for top-roping this route. Also, it is easy to scuttle over to the Lost Pioneers chains from the top of this.

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