Nirvana

Nirvana is a new multipitch route that climbs the edge of a prominent buttress to an outstanding position high above Boynton Canyon. All pitches are clean, with good rock. Those who enjoy vortex tunnels, power laybacking and airy slab climbing will delight in this journey.

The first ascent was done ground-up with a hand-drill, placing a total of four lead bolts, all from stances. Supplemental bolts were later added (also ground-up hand-drilled by the first ascentionist) for long-term enjoyment of the route.

Approach (45-60 minutes): Follow directions to Mystery Spire. When you get to the top of the gully and see Mystery Spire up close, turn left and hike 10-15 minutes northward along a broad slickrock shelf, keeping tucked up against the cliffs where possible, crossing a jungle gully, and eventually coming to the toe of Nirvana Buttress. There is a faint trail for all of this; pay special attention to it when crossing the jungle gully. The buttress is identified by a  jutting ledge 100 feet up, called Junipine Ledge. (For reference, the climb starts at Junipine Ledge; the first pitch is the clean right-facing corner above.) From the toe, wrap around to the shaded north side of the buttress and scramble diagonal-left up 3rd-class slabs, using the gully as a guide. Stop at the distinct lavender limestone band about 100 vertical feet up. This layer is the gateway to Junipine Ledge on the other side of the buttress. Turn right and carefully walk the skinny ledge until it peters out. When you can walk no further, a vortex tunnel miraculously presents itself in the rock wall at your feet. Get down on your belly and squirm army-style through the vortex tunnel, plopping out safely onto the comforts of Junipine Ledge. One juniper, one pine; five-star bivy site. Meditate on the view of Boynton Canyon, then turn and look up... you are now below the first pitch corner.

Pitch 1: Emerging from the vortex tunnel, you are reincarnated as a rock climber. Layback a scriptural chunk of sandstone to a two-bolt belay in the scoops. (5.8, 80 feet, single rack to 5")

Pitch 2: Follow bolts trending into a shallow dihedral before mounting a small platform on the broad arete. Step out over the void and scale the sculpted slab, pulling the final crimp ladder to a two-bolt belay on the deluxe vista ledge. Don't forget to place the directional 3" cam for your follower at the back of the ledge before walking over to the anchor. (5.8, 90 feet, 6 bolts, single 3" cam)

Pitch 3: Head up a steepening right-leaning ramp and launch over the height-dependent crux bulge. Continue up low-angle rollover slabs to a big flat ledge with a two-bolt chain anchor. After belaying your party up, untie and scramble 20 feet to Nirvana. (5.9, 40 feet, 3 bolts)

The technical climbing tops out on a huge slickrock dancefloor with superb views of Boynton Canyon and the distant Verde Valley. From here it is recommended to scramble (3rd/4th-class) a couple hundred feet to the white-capped summit of Peak 5634, aka "Ruin Butte". An incredible perspective awaits.

Descent: Rappel the route with a single 60m rope. To avoid going back through the tunnel, rappel 100 feet from Junipine Ledge using the webbing anchor on the juniper.