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Nirvana Buttress
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Nirvana T 

Nirvana 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 240', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Derek Field, Patrick Weiss, Miranda Perrone, Emma Lodes (Dec 2016)
New Route: Yes
Season: Sunny from 10am till sunset
Page Views: 1,430
Submitted By: Derek Field on Feb 10, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Nirvana topo

Description 

Nirvana is a new multipitch route that climbs the edge of a prominent fin/buttress to an outstanding position high above Boynton Canyon. All pitches are clean, with notably good rock quality for Sedona. Those who enjoy vortex tunnels, solid laybacking and airy slab climbing will delight in this journey.

The first ascent was done ground-up placing only four of the protection bolts present today (not counting anchor stations).

Approach: Follow directions to Mystery Spire. From the notch/gully just north of Mystery Spire, hike 10-15 minutes northward along a broad slickrock shelf, staying up high against the cliffs, crossing a deep jungle gully, and eventually coming to the toe of the buttress. There is a faint trail for all of this; pay special attention to it when crossing the jungle gully. The buttress is identified by a large vegetated ledge 100 feet up - the Junipine Ledge. The climb starts there; the first pitch is the inviting corner above.

From the toe, wrap around to the shaded north side of the buttress and scramble diagonal-left up 3rd-class slabs, using the gully as a guide. Stop at the distinct white-lavender limestone band about 100 vertical feet up. This is the layer that forms the Junipine Ledge on the other side of the buttress. Turn right and carefully walk the skinny ledge created by this layer until it peters out. When you can walk no further, a tunnel miraculously presents itself in the rock wall at your feet. Get down on your belly and squirm army-style through the Vortex Tunnel, popping out safely onto the Junipine Ledge. One juniper, one pine; five-star bivy site. Meditate on the view of Boynton Canyon, then turn and look up... you are now below the first pitch corner.

Note: Recommended to shuttle backpacks/gear through the tunnel with one person on either end.

--------------------

Pitch 1: Emerging from the Vortex Tunnel, you are reincarnated as a rock climber. Layback or jam a scriptural chunk of sandstone to a two-bolt belay in the scoops. (5.8, 80 feet, single rack to 5")

Pitch 2: Follow bolts trending into a shallow dihedral before mounting a small platform on the broad arete. Step out over the void and scale the sculpted slab, pulling a final crimp ladder to a two-bolt belay on a deluxe vista ledge. Don't forget to place the directional 2-3" cam for your follower at the back of the ledge before walking over to the anchors. (5.9, 90 feet, 6 bolts, single 2-3" cam)

Pitch 3: Head up a steepening right-leaning ramp and launch over the height-dependent crux bulge. Continue up low-angle rollover slabs to a big ledge with sturdy pine tree anchor. After belaying your party up, untie and scramble 20 feet to Nirvana. (5.9, 70 feet, 3 bolts)

The climb tops out on a huge slickrock dancefloor with superb views of Boynton Canyon and the distant Verde Valley. From here it is possible, if so desired, to scramble a couple hundred feet to the white-capped summit above. An incredible perspective of the Seven Canyons awaits.

Rappel the route with a single 60m rope. To avoid going back through the Vortex Tunnel, rappel 100 feet from Junipine Ledge using the cordelette anchor on the juniper.

Location 

Direct route up Nirvana Buttress. See photos.

Please do not disturb any ruins that you may come across.

Protection 

Single rack to 5"
6 quickdraws


Photos of Nirvana Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking out along the limestone ledge at Emma retu...
Looking out along the limestone ledge at Emma retu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rare glimpse of the Nirvana approach tunnel (vorte...
Rare glimpse of the Nirvana approach tunnel (vorte...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking across at Nirvana from Mystery Spire.
Looking across at Nirvana from Mystery Spire.
Rock Climbing Photo: Location of Nirvana as seen from Boynton Canyon tr...
Location of Nirvana as seen from Boynton Canyon tr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Location of Nirvana as seen from the main Boynton ...
Location of Nirvana as seen from the main Boynton ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bean leading the first pitch.  (Photo: Giselle Fer...
Bean leading the first pitch. (Photo: Giselle Fer...
Rock Climbing Photo: Very fun laybacking on P1. (Photo: Giselle Fernand...
Very fun laybacking on P1. (Photo: Giselle Fernand...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up pitch one.
Looking up pitch one.
Rock Climbing Photo: Giselle laybacking the first pitch.
Giselle laybacking the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate and Alexis emerging from the tunnel.
Nate and Alexis emerging from the tunnel.
Rock Climbing Photo: Drone shot showing the position on the second pitc...
Drone shot showing the position on the second pitc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alexis surfing the endless positive holds on P2.
Alexis surfing the endless positive holds on P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Late afternoon at the third belay. (Photo: Miranda...
Late afternoon at the third belay. (Photo: Miranda...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave reaching up to the bulge on P3 before the fir...
Dave reaching up to the bulge on P3 before the fir...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate and Alexis walking the limestone ledge. Photo...
Nate and Alexis walking the limestone ledge. Photo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bean cruising P2.   (Photo: Giselle Fernandez)
Bean cruising P2. (Photo: Giselle Fernandez)
Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick emerging from the tunnel.
Patrick emerging from the tunnel.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate (blue helmet) starting P2 with Alexis (orange...
Nate (blue helmet) starting P2 with Alexis (orange...
Rock Climbing Photo: Miranda leading the first pitch.
Miranda leading the first pitch.

Comments on Nirvana Add Comment
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By Dave Spies
From: Sedona, AZ
Feb 11, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Super fun route. Lots of great winter sun, clean rock, unique approach tunnel, and a fun 3rd class scramble to the summit for a world class view. What's not to like. Go Climb it!
By Benn Lewenstein
Feb 21, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Ditto dave. Crawling through the tunnel, turn around to a beautiful open book.
By Giselle F
Mar 7, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The entire route is scenic, memorable, and lots of fun. Oh, that first pitch! Such a classic layback with hidden little ledges when you need to take a breather! As a shortie climber, the crux of each pitch forces me to get creative. For that reason, the crux sections are the most rewarding!

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