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Nine to Five (Variation) T,TR 
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Nine to Five (Variation) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Dust Diedricksen on May 13, 2017

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Start just left of the notch in the roof instead of following the left-angling crack (as for Five Nine Crack). Climb up steep buckets to a sloping ledge. Use a hueco-type pocket and an undercling to traverse right into the roof notch. The move into the notch requires a bit of balance and is reachy (5.9 crux). You may have to find some intermediate crimpers/slopers if you are shorter. There are a few solid holds that can pull you through the notch. The rest of the climbing is only 5.5. This leads to the (2) ring anchors at top.


This Five Nine Crack variation starts to the left of the distinguishable, left-angling crack (about 30' left of where the access trail meets the cliff). The line follows close to where your top rope hangs from the (2) ring anchors. This variation (on top rope) has less rope drag/abrasion and swing than the Five Nine Crack route.


Toprope or lead with gear up to 2".

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