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Lastoni di Formin
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Nikibi (Torrione Marcella formation) S 
North West Buttress  T 
Re Artu (Spiz de Mondeval formation) S 
Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione Marcella formation ) T 

Nikibi (Torrione Marcella formation) 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mario Dibona, Gretchen Alexander 2002
Season: Summer and early fall
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: Tim Wolfe on Dec 30, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Torrione Marcella with routes


This is a very enjoyable route with only one short section of 5.10d/11a and lots of easy 5.10 climbing. Excepting the easy first pitch is it well protected with high quality bolts.
Pitch 1 &2: Climb the path of least resistance up the slab sits just right of the prow. Keep an eye out for a rare bolt. Climb up to a point (first belay area), then down into a shallow depression and up another 3rd class slab to the second belay (2 bolts). Easy 5th class at the start, then 4th class then 3rd class. 60 meters.
Pitch 3-8: Follow the obvious bolt line. The 6th pitch is the only hard pitch (5.10d/11a) with some really well protected crimpy gymnastic moves up and right off the belay. All other pitches have at least a few moves of about 5.9 to 5.10a. The final 9th pitch is very easy.


This route sits on the final tower on the North end (far left from the road) of Lastoni di Formin. There is a large dirt parking strip near a pasture that sits directly below the formation. This parking is on the East side of the road (right going downhill). This parking is a few KM further downhill from the parking described for Re Artu and other routes on this mountain. Reportedly there is a sign nearby that says “Muraglia di Giau” but I don’t recall seeing that marker. Once you find the parking – head across the meadow on the uphill side following a faint trail down through the creek and up the other side then along cairns and thin paths up on the scree slope. Climb the scree up to the base of the wall. The name of this route and Paolo Amedeo are inscribed in the rock. Nikibi starts to the left and is a little hard to initially find since the first pitch has only 2-3 bolts.
Descent: Walk Left (north) and descend the gully immediately to the north of the formation back to the base.


12 quick draws

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