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Nike Rout 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Duane Raleigh, Schooley 1976
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 1,564
Submitted By: Daniel S on Mar 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Nate finishing up the Nike Route at Elk Slabs. Eas...

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  • Description 

    A long (for on pitch) slabby climb that gets easier as you go up. Once you have reached the belay station, you can walk on the slab (though not recommended). The crux is passing the first blot using moderate friction climbing.


    Rout starts essentially the same as Great Expectations and the Dihedral. From the start, veer right onto the steep slab past the first bolt, (crux) then continue up to a horizontal crack where a small cam can be placed. Continue up past another bolt and then to a vertical running crack that can be used as protection. Once the crack ends, run it out on easy 5.0 or less friction climbing to the anchor. Use two ropes to rappel down.


    Two bolts, small cams (3/4 inch to 2 inch), two rap bolts for anchor at top. Two ropes required for repel.

    Comments on Nike Rout Add Comment
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    By Jim D
    Nov 23, 2011

    Very hard to toprope. The velcro-like slab at the top produces a great deal of friction. It doesn't take much to get a rope stuck rapping off this.

    A very fun climb. Looks terrifying from the ground, 165 feet with only 2 bolts, but you can get cams in for much of it, and the last 50 feet is seriously 4th class-you're not going to fall if you got this far, I promise.

    That said, this is far more serious than Great Expectations, where you always have a bomber hold and can put gear in anywhere you want. The protection goes in well-defined places here, cam, bolt, cam, bolt, cams in the crack, then the long run out.
    By K. Bethke
    May 12, 2013
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    Be careful pulling rope it can get stuck in vertical cracks at middle of climb on left side.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 24, 2014
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    Possibly my favorite climb I did at the refuge during my 2 days there! If you like slightly heady slabs with fun gear dinkering and well protected cruxes, this is your climb! Great rock and perfectly bolted, you won't fall far at the cruxes, but potential 50' whippers await you on the easier terrain above. A set of TCU's/Aliens to #1 C4 and some nuts will see you through.

    Fun 5.8, PG-13ish. Boulder Canyon 5.10 X.
    By Clay Studer
    From: Dallas, TX
    Oct 22, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

    It should be noted that the route is shown in both the original 1980 guidebook and in OK Select as going up the middle of the slab and does not use the vertical crack on the left. The crux is still by the first bolt, but I don't know if it feels like an R route if the crack is used for pro.

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