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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 547
Submitted By: susan peplow on Jan 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Marilyn Hsiung somewhere in New jack City. Photo...


Difficult mid-section with barn-door penalty. Other ways to do it but don't want to give away all the fun.

Well protected but the 2nd bolt a bit difficult to clip. That or too many holiday dinners!


Route is obvious from the parking area as it follows the arete of the right Twin Tower. First route you come upon when hiking up the trail to the crag.

Mayr guide 3rd edition - route 807


6 bolts - Chain anchor

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By Brian Chastain
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I thought this was a great route. It took me a minute to start it after clipping the first bolt because the rock looks like s**t as if it wants to come apart. It turned to be solid and the route had great movement. Definitely a sequence to it, in which I was glad to do on first attempt. There is a very rattly hold at he bottom below the first bolt, but you do not need it.
By duh
May 4, 2016

Originally we belayed from the top of the boulder in front of the route, but the route was still off to the side of the stance and was awkward location to catch falls. We later would belay below the route in the gully which was better location to belay and catch falls from but involved soloing the slab to the 1st bolt, which was ok when NJC was less popular. A new bolt was placed earlier this season on the slab below what was the 1st bolt.

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