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Nightmares in French 

Hueco: V10- Font: 7C+

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V10- Font: 7C+ [details]
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Carlos Tkacz on Nov 24, 2015

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Another semi-contrived line, but with really fun movement. Climb Frenchman's Worst Nightmare, eliminating the big bulge/flake out left that allows for the kneebar. The result is a super shouldery sequence into a desperate crux- fun! I am unsure of the grade, but I based it off of other climbs there. Felt harder that Involuntary Lunge but not as hard as Whiplash. Just my opinion!


Happy Hunting Grounds, on the Dissin' Euros boulder.



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By Bob Banks
Dec 6, 2015

Sounds to me like an exact description of Frenchman's Worst Nightmare.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Dec 7, 2015

There's definitely some confusion lingering on this part of the boulder. I think it's likely that this problem is Frenchman's Worst Nightmare.

Frenchman's has never made sense to any of us and we always figured it was broken. Maybe it's not? Sean and I watched Carlos climb what seemed sort of like Frenchman's, but his version included some funky footwork on the shelf below and, I think, a drop-knee on the Pardon My French jug.
Either way, it's cool to see Pine drawing in outside climbers like Carlos. The guy's strong as whiskey on a Monday morning.
By Bob Banks
Dec 8, 2015

Pretty sure the description in O11 is "start on twin gastons", both of which are still there, although a LOT smaller than they used to be (used to be V7 I think, although I'd have to check Edwards' old book to be sure), then hit the crimp and dyno to the jug...2 moves and you're in Dissing Euros. Goes pretty much dead center of the face, I can't picture how you could be far enough over to even use the Pardon My French block as a foothold until you get higher on the wall. I know I have video of it, I'll try to put it up one of these days. Ancient video may not be relevant to current state of the route though, but at least you can see how it originally went.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Dec 8, 2015

I think Carlos' other variation included all the proper beta for the hands; twin gastons to the crimp, then the Dissing Euros bucket. But at some point, he walked his feet WAY out left and up and was pretty much sideways. It looked really improbable, but sort of cool. Perhaps an easier variation to Frenchman's Worst Nightmare. Looking forward to the video.
By Bob Banks
Dec 10, 2015

This is the original Frenchman's Worst Nightmare. You could go to the crimp with either hand, right was a grade harder.

Funny, I was thinking about how one would use that block as a foothold and said to myself, "You'd have to be fricking sideways??" That sequence actually sounds pretty rad.

There aren't many boulder problems that I've done more than this one, probably only Yeti, The Extremist or Goldak are in the same ballpark. Great problem.
By Carlos Tkacz
Dec 13, 2015

Psyched to finally get the confusion about this problem out of the way! So I had never seen anyone else do this problem when I started working on the beta. Following the description from the book, I was starting lower, with my right on the left hand start for Dissin Euros (stand) and my left on a small gaston at the same height. I would immediately throw a left kneebar and move into where you started in the video, Bob. Definitely one of my favorites! The eliminate I have described starts the same and then moves into the same beta, sans kneebar an big flake for the foot, that you are doing (though man, you make those moves look good! they were hard for me haha). I had some shitty video and just erased it from my phone yesterday! maybe i can find some pics somewhere...
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Dec 13, 2015

So it was a low start? Interesting! Now Im really wanting to drive up there and try this thing out (from the regular start, largely because Bob made it look so damn easy...).

Makes sense now. Pretty much how I remember it, except you guys are stepping on the bulge below the Pardon My Friench jug.
By Carlos Tkacz
Dec 13, 2015

I guess so yeah haha here are a few photos of a friend and I:

Rock Climbing Photo: This is after the first move
This is after the first move

Rock Climbing Photo: this i basically the start for the way he did it i...
this i basically the start for the way he did it in the video

Rock Climbing Photo: and then its on
and then its on

the grade, of course, is just what it felt like, taking into consideration that Ive always called the lower, kneebar version v8 because thats what it said in the book. I'm stoked for people to try it and adjust accordingly

as a side note, I did a sit start to this a few weeks ago, starting a little left of the Dissin Euros sit on a left undercling. Kinda shenanigan-y and not that great, but if youre bored and looking for something else to do...

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