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Nightmares About Ticks 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Geoff Sluyter
Page Views: 541
Submitted By: Buster Jesik on Jun 6, 2007

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Description 

This 3-bolt line ascends up to then over a prow. The bolts are kind of spaced for a route of this difficulty, with a runout to the anchors. One can preplace a small cam with a long sling between the 3rd bolt and the top to shrink the runout. Rock is a little funky in spots but mostly solid. The route is short and sustained, with some of the harder moves between the 2nd and 3rd bolt.

Location 

On the prow to the left of Ninja Ladder.

Protection 

3 bolts + anchors, maybe a small cam.


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By Buster Jesik
Jun 6, 2007

On the page about Ninja Ladder, Geoff calls this line 12b/c. I submitted it as 12c, because I broke off a large and useful side pull above the 3rd bolt, making a tricky dyno necessary. I assumed that Geoff did the FA; if I’m wrong, tell me and I’ll change it.

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