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Nightmare 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Brian McCray
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,169
Submitted By: Mike Farnsworth on Jan 17, 2014  with updates from Tom Cecil

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Connie on belay, Mike trying to keep that fluffy c...

Description 

Old McCray project. Get inverted and get your kneebar on. This route is seriously fun, if a bit loose (in particular, there is one large block in the middle of the route). Aside from the midway block, the route seems to be cleaning up well.

The moves are more tricky than they are hard: two cryptic cruxes towards the end of the route. I think it feels about 13a, but maybe it should be given 10+ since it is at Seneca. You'll swear you are at Rifle.

Location 

Starts in the back of the cave on the right wall, ends at the Predator anchors.

Protection 

bolts


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Rock Climbing Photo: Mike on Nightmare.
Mike on Nightmare.

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By Mike Farnsworth
Nov 4, 2014

Ok... I really should stop bothering with this site altogether. However, Kelly: you may note that this route was posted long before Brian's death, so the two events (the possible FFA of the route and Brian's passing) seem unconnected, at least according to any sort of logical reasoning structures of which I'm aware. Also, I spoke at length with Brian about the route as I was beginning to work on it. He was very supportive and glad that someone had picked back up the project, asking only that I keep the name, should I free the route, which is in reference to his dog, who was unfortunately hit by a car in the Seneca area.

There is, of course, a possibility that someone else did free the route first. A local claimed that Stefan Glowacz freed it, but was unable to provide specifics. I reached out to Stephan's manager, who told me she would ask him, but has not replied since. If, however, you're quibbling about the difference between FA and FFA, then by all means, I concede: the person who bolts the route has the FA. Further, if something gave you the impression that I think I own the route, then please, let me set the record straight: I do not believe that I own the rock, and in fact, would be very happy if others also climb the rock. The only rocks that I think I legitimately own are in my driveway or are paperweights. However, some climbers still believe that knowledge of the first person to climb a route in a certain style is noteworthy knowledge. Forgive me for holding on to this antiquated notion. If I ever spoke of the route as "my" route, it was only in this colloquial sense, which I have sense called into question with the question marks surrounding my name.

Perhaps the two most important points are these: (1) I have been very inspired by Brian throughout my life as a climber and I was very sad to hear of his death. (2) There are alternate - harder - finishes left to complete; if anyone is legitimately interested in the actual climbing portion of this route or the alternatives that exist, please feel free to contact me.

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