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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 410'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: J. Kohout, N. Ocelka, Z. Mlynek 6/27/1986
Page Views: 723
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Jul 9, 2009

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Looking west from the top of the third pitch.


Nightmare and its many variants (from left to right:Historische Meile, Aber Muckl! and Kali Nikta) ascend the northern side of Doupianifels to the right of the large cave and ledge. Its definitely worth taking one or more to the summit, because the view is great--especially around sunset.

You must bring double ropes to get down from this route. You will not be able to get down on a single rope.

Pitch 1: 5.8 150 feet
Climb up to the belay at the right-hand side of a circular depression.

Pitch 2: 5.4 50 feet
Climb diagonal left above the circular depression and up to the belay at the extreme right-hand side of the large cave and ledge half way up Doupianifels.

Pitch 3: 5.7 50 feet
Climb up past a bolt to a belay.

Pitch 4: 5.7 100 feet
Climb up through a brief crux protected with 2 pins, before running it out to a belay near a small tree.

Pitch 5: 5.4 70 feet
Continue up the low angle rock to an anchor at the summit.

Listed as P1: VI-, P2: III, P3: V+, P4: V+ and P5: III under the UIAA system.


Bolts and bolted anchors. Bolts are around during the tough sections, but this route is very, very run out in the upper easy parts.

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