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Looking west from the top of the third pitch.
Nightmare and its many variants (from left to right:Historische Meile, Aber Muckl!
and Kali Nikta
) ascend the northern side of Doupianifels to the right of the large cave and ledge. Its definitely worth taking one or more to the summit, because the view is great--especially around sunset. You must bring double ropes to get down from this route. You will not be able to get down on a single rope.
Pitch 1: 5.8 150 feet
Climb up to the belay at the right-hand side of a circular depression.
Pitch 2: 5.4 50 feet
Climb diagonal left above the circular depression and up to the belay at the extreme right-hand side of the large cave and ledge half way up Doupianifels.
Pitch 3: 5.7 50 feet
Climb up past a bolt to a belay.
Pitch 4: 5.7 100 feet
Climb up through a brief crux protected with 2 pins, before running it out to a belay near a small tree.
Pitch 5: 5.4 70 feet
Continue up the low angle rock to an anchor at the summit.
Listed as P1: VI-, P2: III, P3: V+, P4: V+ and P5: III under the UIAA system.
Bolts and bolted anchors. Bolts are around during the tough sections, but this route is very, very run out in the upper easy parts.