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Nightmare Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
And Metal for All S 
Big Daddy Overhang T 
Big daddy's Ramp T 
Claim Jumper T 
Dirty Sanchez, The T,S 
Endodontic Treatment, The T 
Grand Daddy Overhang T 
Great Grandaddy T 
Hypertension T 
It's a Potpourri! T,S 
Morpheus S 
Perspective T 
Presto S 
Sentry Box T 
Short Sentry T 
Who's Your Daddy? T 

Nightmare Rock Rock Climbing 

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Location: 49.6489, -123.2021 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,636
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 12, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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An east facing cliff close to the road (somewhat noisy) that has a good selection of routes 5.10 and above. Bonus: many of the pitches will stay dry through the first phases of a Squamish rain siege.

Getting There 

Nightmare is on the west side of the road, about 400 meters north of the Murrin parking lot; its large roofs are visible from the road.

Either park in the parking lot (and pay) or, at least during the current state of construction, the paved should directly in front of NR is wide to allow parking directly in front of the cliff.

A trail leaves the road near the south end of the cliff and takes less than five minutes.

Climbing Season

For the Squamish area.

Weather station 4.1 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Nightmare Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Nightmare Rock:
Short Sentry   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 50'   
Who's Your Daddy?   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 45'   
Hypertension   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Perspective   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Great Grandaddy   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Grand Daddy Overhang   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 60'   
Morpheus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 80'   
Sentry Box   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Claim Jumper   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Big Daddy Overhang   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 80'   
Presto   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Nightmare Rock

Featured Route For Nightmare Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: '78 Ascent

Sentry Box 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  North America : Canada : ... : Nightmare Rock
The classic hard finger crack at Murrin. Ascend a steep 10a crack on the face above some blocks and past an intermediate anchor. Traverse to a stance below a right leaning splitter finger crack on the headwall. A short, but thin and technical crux(12a) lies above. Fight on to the chains. Watch for the rope getting stuck in the crack to the left of the mid-height ledge.Do "Sentry Box Direct" for, in my opinion, a better, more sustained version, but beware of the difficult gear placements. There i...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Nightmare Rock Add Comment
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By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Nov 28, 2007
Nightmare is arguably the best single crag for hard cracks in Squamish. Perspective, Sentry Box, Claim Jumper, Hypertension and Big Daddy are but a few....
By Evan Stevens
Jun 9, 2008
Don't be fooled...only the bottom half of 2 or 3 routes stay dry in the rain, not the quality stuff up high!

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