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Routes in Gothic Nightmare
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Iron Age Master T A4 |
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Nightmare on Onion Creek T A4 |
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Something Wicked This Way Comes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Two Fall Wall T A4+ R |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Heavy Duty, Kevin Chase |
| Page Views: | 1,267 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Aslaksen on Nov 28, 2016 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
P1 - A4 thin/nebulous, hooks
P2 - A3 in corner
P3 - A2 to bolt ladder
P4 - A3 thin in overhanging dihedral to bolt ladder
P5 - A3 bolt ladder to saddle anchor then two bolts to the top.
P2 - A3 in corner
P3 - A2 to bolt ladder
P4 - A3 thin in overhanging dihedral to bolt ladder
P5 - A3 bolt ladder to saddle anchor then two bolts to the top.
Location
Middle of the face. Route goes to the lower sub-summit, not the true summit.The first 3.5 pitches are great, the rest is crap.
Protection
Standard Mystery Towers nailing rack with some big cams, hooks, Peckers, Spectres, and tie-offs (many).
"Bolt ladder" means crappy drilled angles sticking 3/4 out of the hole (or more) and bolts eroded out 1 to 2 inches (or more). Stuff easily pulled out by hand. Bring a drill, a ton of tie-offs, and a sense of humor. Ours was the 2nd ascent of this route 19 years after the first. The erosion was astounding.
"Bolt ladder" means crappy drilled angles sticking 3/4 out of the hole (or more) and bolts eroded out 1 to 2 inches (or more). Stuff easily pulled out by hand. Bring a drill, a ton of tie-offs, and a sense of humor. Ours was the 2nd ascent of this route 19 years after the first. The erosion was astounding.
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