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Nightingale's on Vacation 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 253
Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 1, 2006

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This route has one hard section in the middle of the route. The crux is a tricky sequence in a slight bulge just above a ledge, and a fall at this spot may land you on the ledge. Enjoyable moves here, but oh so short, then on to an easy finish.


On the far left side of the Testament Slab, right of the chimney/gully, Gothic Cathedral, and just right of the crack line, Old Testament.


Bolts. Rap Anchors.

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By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jul 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

A fun technical sequence above the ledge leads to much easier ground. Seems soft for 10b.
By another Chad
Apr 24, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

With regards to the route description above; in my experience, falling off at the crux has not been at all problematic. I've belayed someone who fell at the crux and I've done the same. Both falls resulted in the leader going down the left side of the block without any contact. Smooth sailing.

By Erik Keever
Oct 12, 2015

Agree this felt soft at .10b. I ended up on a sequence that felt .9+/10a. Judging by the chalked face holds right (and the lack of marks on my sequence), that's probably why the consensus is .10b.

Read backwards for beta/spoiler:
guj citsatnaf a si drawer ,etera eht fo edis tfel eht hcraeS

I felt Irreverence just right was a good deal harder, but by late morning the heat was probably enough to color my perceptions.
By Zachary Winters
From: Mazama, Washington
Mar 20, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The select book gives this 10a, which feels right to me. A bit of a one-move-wonder, but there is some 5.9 climbing with your bolt below your feet on the first half to keep things interesting before you get to the crux. Crux is very comfortably bolted compared to the Smith standard (one or two moves between clips at the crux).

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