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Happy Hour Crag
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Malign T,TR 
Nightcap T,TR 
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Allen Wood, '79
Page Views: 5,625
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Jun 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (176)
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BETA PHOTO: Nightcap and Malign.

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  • Description 

    This is a wonderful route. Start about 10-15 feet right of Dementia, work up nebulous terrain to gain a right-facing area with easy cracks. Work up into a thin crack that follows through a bulge. Stem and shimmy your way up and gain a nice, albeit short finger crack to the top. There are no bolts, set a nice anchor and watch the sun set over the canyon.

    This is one of my favorite routes in the Canyon, and it is better than its neighbor Grins.


    Standard rack, no real big gear necessary, up to a #2 Camalot and a few mid-size hexes. Smaller nuts/cams protect the business. A green Alien will protect the crux very well. There are no bolts at the top. Bring something to sling a large boulder and a larger cam or two for the belay.

    Eds. there is a natural thread at the anchor.

    Photos of Nightcap Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Being south-facing, Happy Hour is a great winter-t...
    Being south-facing, Happy Hour is a great winter-t...
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux.
    At the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: 7. Last Call, 9+. 8. Dementia, 10a. 9. Malign, 7. ...
    BETA PHOTO: 7. Last Call, 9+. 8. Dementia, 10a. 9. Malign, 7. ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Marga Powell at the the traverse to the crux corne...
    Marga Powell at the the traverse to the crux corne...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Marga Powell at the crux.  She has a good red Alie...
    Marga Powell at the crux. She has a good red Alie...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lance on Nightcap.
    Lance on Nightcap.

    Comments on Nightcap Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 29, 2015
    By Travis V
    Aug 26, 2001

    This is a fun route. It's a little easier than a 5.9, the only 5.9 sections is the small overhang 3/4 the way up. Even thought this site says that it's a trad route, you could easily top rope it with an anchor between a big rock and a tree.
    By Jeff Lockyer
    From: Canmore, AB
    Nov 14, 2001

    I agree with the 3 stars for sure. The 5.9 section is very short indeed, also you dont need to build an anchor if you just run your rope back a little to a tree up and left and belay from here. You can scramble down and right to get to the anchors for 'grins' and rappell or downclimb. A very enjoyable route with a mix of everything. Enjoy..
    By Hayden Yurkanis
    Sep 25, 2003

    You might like having RPs for this climb, because the part below the crux is a bit tricky as well. A really good climb and a lot better than it looks from the ground.
    By Eric Goltz
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 25, 2003

    Right you are, Jay; this pitch is a lot more interesting than it looks from the ground.
    By Brian Weinstein
    Nov 12, 2003
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Fun route, a good one to warm up on before hitting some of the other moderates. It didn't seem of very sustained nature. The crux was short, some interesting little bulges on the granite. Plenty of gear placements, seems like a good first 9 lead. Overall, Happy Hour is a great place to work on placing gear to your heart's delight while being able to challenge yourself.
    By Michael Kullman
    Nov 17, 2003

    Definitely a nice route, not very sustained (much like Grins in that regard) but does have some tricky moves.
    By DavidHH
    From: Parker, Colorado
    Jun 10, 2006
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Great Route! I protected the crux with a green Alien, I actually took a very clean fall through the crux and the Alien was bomber.
    By Joe Brannan
    From: Lyons, CO
    Aug 27, 2008

    First 5.9 lead and it was awesome. Gear is easy and abundant. Had to hang on the rope a bit at the crux but eventually sacked up and made the move.
    By Evan Deis
    Jun 14, 2009

    Fun route with great movement. You'll find that the crux is evident, but not in the way of a good send; get high feet.
    By Count Chockula
    From: Littleton, CO
    Sep 12, 2010

    I also had some trouble with the crux move in the corner. I may have plugged up the key finger lock for the right hand with a #0.5, so I French-freed the move to get my feet high enough to snag a good left hand finger lock and I was out of the corner.

    I think I made the move harder than it needed to be, though.
    By farkas.time
    From: Albuquerque, NM
    Jun 12, 2013
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Really nice climb! Highly recommended. Well protected, long and fun.

    I recommend bouldering to the obvious 3 inch crack about 25 feet up and plugging a Camalot #4.
    By Ketchup
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 29, 2014

    There is now a two bolt anchor with rings just below the top of this climb.
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 29, 2015

    It is possible to plug in a 0.5 Camalot at the crux move. If you set it low enough, there should still be room for a good finger lock above it. At least there was for me. A 0.4 might also work well. Fun climb!

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