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Redgarden - S Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Breed Apart T 
Anthill Direct T 
Archer McLanahan T 
Back in Black S 
Backstroke T,S 
Backtalk T,S,TR 
Black Top S 
Blackwalk T 
Book of Numbers T,S 
Bulge Indirect T 
Bulge, The T 
C'est La Fin T 
C'est La Morte T 
C'est La Vie T 
Chromium Shore T 
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 
Continue-us T 
Crack Variation T 
Desdichado T,S 
Dessert T 
East Overhang TR 
East Side T 
Edge of Night, The T 
Exodus T 
Flakes, The T 
Genesis T,S 
Genuine Risk  T 
Genuine Risk Takers T 
High Noon T,S 
Horizontal Beginnings T 
Je T'Aime T,S 
La Vie d' Pansey TR 
Le Boomerang T,S 
Left Side of Roark, The T 
Mental Cruelty TR 
Night T 
Noggin T 
Original Anthill T 
PA's Variation T 
Pansee Sauvage T,S 
Pilgrim S 
Pseudo Sidetrack T 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 
Redguard T 
Restless Nights T 
Semi-Wild T 
Semi-Wild Slab T 
Shades of Gray T 
Sticky Feet T 
To Night T 
Trinity Cracks T 
Vaporizer, The S 
Variation to Lower Meadows T 
Walk the Talk T 
Whistle Stop, The T 
Whittle Wall, The T 
Whittle Whisk T 


YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c X

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c X [details]
FA: FA: Layton Kor FFA: Jeff Achey
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,155
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 11, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Josh Janes arrives at the crux of 'Night (5.11)' o...

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  • Description 

    This is a superlative pitch just left of the much safer Back in Black on the Blackwalk Wall around the east side of Redgarden. Jeff Achey's ground-up lead on the first ascent took a whopping four hours -- a fine display of mental control and patience that surely ranks as one of the great leads in Eldo history.

    Climb the chossy ramp as for Back in Black, moving up and left an additional 8-10 feet from where you would clip the first bolt on Back in Black. Place imaginary pro and make a very commiting move right onto the bulging, brown face. Climb past underclings, sidepulls, and funky holes to a stance at a left-trending crack. Load this crack up with gear and move up and right into the crux bulge, aiming for the left-diagonalling pocket band in the smooth, black headwall. Follow this to the anchors.


    You won't need much. Small wires and a #1 Camalot get you up the ramp, then small TCU's and double 1-1/2" cams take you through the crux. A final #1 Camalot in a hole gets you to the route's lone bolt, just before the double-bolt anchors.

    Photos of Night Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: "Maybe more like this?"  Josh Janes twis...
    "Maybe more like this?" Josh Janes twis...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Janes approaches the steep section on 'Night ...
    Josh Janes approaches the steep section on 'Night ...

    Comments on Night Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 5, 2004
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Crux-O-Rama. Even on TR this got my attention. The lower 1/2 is not to hard and you could get a few pieces in and probably be OK if climbing 5.11 anyway. The crux comes pulling into Matt's 1.5", left-leaning crack. I'd take 3 cams, 1.5"-2" and load them up with 2' slings to get a rope over the edge if I were to actually lead this. The crux comes up next.... Exiting the crux is balancy, hard, and pumpy- then you get the #1 Camalot (or a 2-2.5" cam) a few meters before the bolt. It was hard to get to the bolt, but then the difficulty dropped off a little to reach the top (5.10?).

    You need a 70m or two ropes to TR the route off of the anchors- the 70m hangs inches above the ground with long slings on the anchors.
    By Greg Miller
    Jul 8, 2010

    By Noah McKelvin
    From: Colorado Springs
    Oct 31, 2016
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X

    One of the best in Eldo!

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