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Night Shift 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 900'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Scaffer et al., 8/05
Page Views: 2,598
Submitted By: Brad G on Jul 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Night Shift. P4.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Wow, this thing is hard. My big toes still hurt three days later and I’m not sure if I ever want to get back up there. The line is a little contrived but none the less it’s still a good rock climb and you’ll have a fun time trying to move off those dime edges.

For the first three pitches the route follows the large black steak between the Regular Route and Heart of Stone. On pitch four traverse right along the dike for about twenty feet and head up the thin golden plates (these are your hand and foot holds). Pitch five is the crux, much similar to pitch four just harder. Three more pitches of easier climbing bring you to the large U-shaped ledge. From there you can rappel (two rope required) or climb two easy pitches to the top of the dome.

You won’t get lost on this climb because it’s heavily bolted almost the whole way. The last two pitches wander a little but there’s enough bolts to keep you on track, bring some 1/4 to 1 inch cams for these pitches.


Between the Regular Route and Heart of Stone.


12 Draws, 1/4 to 1 inch cams

Photos of Night Shift Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mac doing the old 'paste and pray' on P3 of Night ...
Mac doing the old 'paste and pray' on P3 of Night ...

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By Brad G
From: 1994 Honda Civic
Jul 5, 2009

The guide book gives this route a 5.12 rating but if could be harder due to fragile edges (holds) breaking and crumbling. My partner and I broke a few.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Jul 6, 2014

I thought the first 3 pitches were great. Bailed on the 4th, got tired of falling, but it also seemed good. I look forward to getting back on it with a rope gun.
By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Jul 22, 2014

Great route. Well protected, but a bit crusty. Small edges are easy to break off, be careful. We felt that the 11+ pitch was as hard as the 12 pitch. The last two pitches are very traversing and confusing. We were unable to find the last two bolted anchors that were drawn on the Falcon topo.
By Katiebird
Jul 25, 2014

The smallest of the small edges won't break - only the more friable looking ones will - they can be avoided at most times. Pitch 7 doesn't have a an anchor - the last bolt, bolt 6 was originally to be the anchor station - if one goes left about 50 feet there is small corner where a gear anchor can be built with a .5and a .4. There is also no anchor at the end of pitch 8 in the U-shaped bowl.
By Mikey Schaefer
From: Terrebonne, OR
Dec 8, 2015

Katie is right. There is a missing bolt for the pitch 7 anchor. What I did is just climb up to the first bolt on p8, clip that one and then lower to the previous bolt and built the anchor with the two clipped bolts. But there is actually an anchor in the U-shaped bowl. it's just hard to find. I believe it is two cold shuts. I'm 100% positive about this as I've rapped from those anchors a few times.

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