Night of the Unicorn
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The Knome Dome, site of this route, lies a short way below and to the east of the Colossus. As for that rock, hike the Fern lake trail 1 and 1/2 miles to Bridge, then head up the hill. The Knome Dome is a prominent, 350 foot high triangular cliff. P1-Identify an A-shaped roof halfway up the cliff, and start below that, near a large tree. Traverse up and right across the face on a ramp to a belay (5.5). P2-climb straight up, linking cracks and corners, and belay below a bulge, down and right of the A-shaped roof (5.7, 100 ft.) P3-Climb over the bulge (5.10a) or climb the corner to the roof and turn that at 5.8. Either way continue in a nice hand crack. Belay or stretch the rope to the top; descend to the west. Note: the cliff immediately west (the Moot Point Apron sports a beautiful steep slab with a shallow dihedral, said to be 5.10 (2 old bolts). Unfortunately, my partner took a rather large fall after 50 feet of fantastic climbing, so we didn't finish the route. An offwidth piece for a flake would be advisable.
Bobby following one of the upper pitches.
Charlie Cole a couple pitches up.
By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 18, 2001
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The suppossed 5.10a variation was more like a couple moves of awkward 5.9. I was psyched to have it as my first 10a lead, but I don't claim it since it felt so much easier. That's probably a good thing since who would want to have a route with a name like "Night of the Unicorn" be their first .10 lead? It was from this route that Charles and I spotted a number of nice-looking cracks on the supposedly unclimbed but named "Colussus," which we climbed on our way back to our packs (see the description for "Colussus Crack").
PS - I propose that the variation be called "My Little Pony"