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The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
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Night Moves 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ron Olsen, Bill Henson, Gillian Collins, 11/26/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,720
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Nov 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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BETA PHOTO: Anchors at the base of the headwall above Tim.

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  • Description 

    Night Moves is a short but fun mixed route that starts at the same place as Diamonds and Rust, on a big shelf about 20' left of Heterohedral and 10' right of Edge of Reality.

    Step up and clip a bolt on the left. Climb straight up a right-facing corner. A yellow Alien can be placed in an undercling between the second and third bolts. Mantel onto a big ledge on the left, and continue up the face to the anchor. A green Camalot can be placed to protect the final move to the anchor.


    The route starts on a big shelf about 20' left of Heterohedral and 10' right of Edge of Reality. This is the same start as for It's Time for Change and Diamonds and Rust.

    To get there from the main Bihedral area, traverse left on the narrow exposed ledge past Dan's Line and Group Therapy. Be very careful. Not a good approach for kids or pets. A safer approach can be made by coming up from the Left Side area, but this is a long way from the main Bihedral area.

    An anchor has been installed on the right side of the shelf, so you can do a diagonal rappel back to the main Bihedral area instead of reversing the exposed traverse; see ??.


    5 bolts plus a yellow Alien and green #0.75 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.

    Comments on Night Moves Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 24, 2009

    The mantle move is kind of tricky. The yellow Alien is nice here for peace of mind.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 16, 2010
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    What is the variation of this route which splits to the right after the 3rd or 4th bolt and finishes between this one and the Diamonds and Rust at a bolted anchor?
    By James Hicks
    From: Grand Junction, CO
    Oct 15, 2012

    Honestly I'm not sure why this is listed as a mixed route. Placing gear here for any purpose other than practice seems a bit excessive. There is a bolt on top of the ledge halfway up that can be reached before pulling up on top of the ledge if you feel you need more protection. I carried gear up it and never felt it was necessary to place it.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Dec 17, 2012

    You can clip a bolt right at the mantle move before you commit, so I don't think gear is necessary either.
    By Hiro Kurotsuchi
    From: Colorado
    Jan 19, 2013
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Led this today - I'm into protection and placing gear for practice, but I thought there were plenty of bolts. If I had stopped to place gear, I would just be wearing myself out. Climb smart and purposefully....
    By Matt Bentley
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 4, 2017
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Don't bring gear, as this one is short and sweet. There's more than enough pro on the route, and all the moves are well-protected.

    My wife described this route as "cute". Definitely check out "It's Time for Change" if you're over here. That route is worth the traverse, though this one may not be by itself.

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