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Spooner Crag
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Night Cap 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,277
Submitted By: Chris Barker on May 12, 2010  with updates from Josh Cameron

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Looking down the second "pitch" of the N...


This route is pretty straight forward. Follow the bolts just left of the large crack on the south face of Spooner Crag. There are 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. You can stop there or proceed over the top to a brand spanking new set of stainless hangers to the first belay. From this belay follow the bolts to the summit over a small 12-18 inch overhang. You will find a nasty old rusty piece of crap metal chunk and a nice new bolt to absail from. Throw your rope over the back side of the climb (the side that you did not climb up). You are able to reach the bottom over the back with a 60 meter rope.


This route follows the set of bolts just left of the large crack in the south face. The route just left of "Forget About It".


there are 5 bolts and an anchor on the first pitch. There are about bolts and an anchor on the second pitch.

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By Gill
From: minden, nevada
Jul 24, 2010

If you feel ok with scrambling up the large crack it can save some time. Not very sketchy with positive holds. If you have any doubt, error on the side of caution! Just a way to save time to get to a great view. Also, I did desend the same side I climbed up with a 60 meter rope to the ground at the start of Pocket Pool and Jello Wars. If you do this you can set up top ropes on Pocket Pool and Jello Wars, just bring an extra rope up the large crack and stage it at the mid way point.
By john weaver
Sep 29, 2010

the secound pitch that starts at the top of the crack/ gully above fire and ice. is named (night Cap) i all ways rapped down over stepping out.
By Chris Barker
From: Denver, CO
Jan 26, 2011

Thanks for the update guys. I added the name "Night Cap" to the whole route. If you think I should split it up please suggest how and I will make the change.

By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Makes for a great warm-up or cool down.

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