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Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Azucar S 
Bearly Hanging On S 
Bearly Hanging On Direct S 
Crotalid S 
Dirty V S 
Elapsid S 
Half Pint -Trailhead Boulder 
It's easy to be brave... S 
Mid Life Crisis -Trailhead Boulder 
Monkey! - Trailhead Boulder 
Niether S 
Thunder Down Under S 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Erik Pikas, Richard Spoor, 2011
Page Views: 1,454
Submitted By: Erik Pikas on Sep 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Early ascent of Neither on a cold Fall day.


Climb up the easy ledgey section and do a balancey move onto the face. Continue up to the big ledge and follow bolts up to the alcove. Climb up to the roof of the alcove (bolts to your left) and figure out the trick to pulling over the roof. Continue up the slabbey face above to the anchors. Don't get suckered into following the broken section on the right of the alcove, this is 5.6ish, but you can't clip the bolts from it.


10' right of Bearly Hanging On Direct.


Sport. 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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By Ross Weller
From: New York, New York
Apr 30, 2014

Solid route on quality rock. Stay honest and follow the line of the bolts. Needs to see some more traffic or a good spring cleaning but worth the hike.
By cPay
From: Riverdale, NY
May 8, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

whoever bolted the anchor should be careful. the close proximity to 4 unused(old) bolts can compromise the rock. i'd suggest placing a couple glue-ins higher
By Erik Pikas
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 13, 2014

CPay, I think you must be referring to the anchor on Elapsid which is just to the right of Neither. The newly placed "retro bolts" on the anchor are 5.75" bolts. Much deeper than the originals. The anchor on Neither is also (2) 5.75" bolts, but there are no old bolts near it.
By Erik Pikas
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 29, 2014

We finally added chains to the anchor of Neither. Also, per feedback from several climbers we moved a couple of the upper bolts higher, making the crux significantly safer.

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