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Nicky's Crack 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 8/99
Page Views: 3,359
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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BETA PHOTO: Nicky's Crack heads straight up the middle of this...


Don't be fooled by the's not a crack climb. "Nikki's Crimps" might be more appropriate. A great technical climb which can stymie confident 5.12 climbers from time to time.

The route starts up more moderate moves in a corner gaining a good rest followed by stout face climbing following the thin cracks in the headwall. Very technical.


To the right of Jolt and Dolt there is a smooth face about 40 feet up, split by a few very thin cracks. Follow bolts below up a corner to the face.


7 bolts to the same quick clips as Hinterland Highway (5.6).

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By BTodd
May 26, 2008

although you can just top rope it (using the 5.6 next to it), I thought it was a nice 11 to lead if you are starting to get into leading 11's... especially since if you can't make it and your partner can't get up it either, you can always lead the 5.6 and get your gear etc. I agree that it is more small crimps and footwork than a crack.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 27, 2008

I think the name should be spelled Nicky's Crack, as in Nicky Dyal. I'm not absolutely sure, but I think she was the girl at the crag with her dad at the time of the FA. She made a bit of an impression on us all. We were having a conversation about elves and wood nymphs and along she came, looking exactly like one
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Aug 28, 2008

It's been changed. Why were you talking about elves and stuff in the first place Mark?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 29, 2008

Lol, I think we were seeing them up there quite often, before the masses of people came and scared them off.
By burlap submariner
Feb 19, 2010

Thats wild Ive climb this a bunch of times and i didnt know it was named after nicky....she is rather elfkin like.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 11, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

It's funny what a year of experience can do for you; got on this today and it was super cruiser. :) Moves that were burly for me all went down with ease after using better technique. Crux of the climb is using the right holds in the sea of chalk and tick marks. Nice climb.
By GarrettM
From: bedford, nh
May 17, 2010

super tricky. insain feet, reachy, awesome. I will be back to conqure it
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 17, 2010

I think this was my most painful bare foot ascent ever. Ouch! It was perversely fun though.
By S. Neoh
Aug 19, 2012

I cannot imagine climbing this thing barefoot. I stood on some really small footholds to make some of the moves. No send today, quite a Beta intensive climb. Really quite good.
By S. Neoh
Nov 24, 2013

Unless you are perverted like Mark, bring your most techie shoes and best footwork for this one. They will come in handy for the 1 or 2 moves that make the grade.

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