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Avoiding the Issue T 
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Deathblock Dihedral T 
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Nickel and Dimed T 
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Nickel and Dimed 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring/Fall for rock, winter for mixed
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Derek DeBruin on Sep 4, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: "Nickel and Dimed" (and variation), the ...

Description 

Start on "Avoiding the Issue" (mountainproject.com/v/avoiding... ) until on the landing below the stacked roofs.

From the landing, climb the left wall below the roofs on good horizontals. Step left onto the prow near the lip of the roof, then head up, angling right a bit to a crack and belay on the many ledges atop the roof. Optional #4 for this pitch, emphasis on hand sizes for the horizontals. Fun climbing on generally good rock. 5.8, 45m.

Head up from this belay staying generally left, aiming for a right-facing corner crack in the left side of the upper headwall/roof. 4th to low 5th.

Pull two distinct, strenuous moves in the right-facing corner crack, protected initially by finger-sized gear, then a BD #3 at the top. Scamper up to belay on a ledge. (See photo: mountainproject.com/v/11212193... ) 5.9, 20m.

Scramble to the top.

Location 

Start as for "Avoiding the Issue;" see that description for approach and descent beta.

Protection 

Single rack to #3, additional pieces fingers to hand size pieces, optional #4.


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