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Nickel And Dime 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Fixed Hardware: 10 Lead Bolts, 4 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,213
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 8, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Sheer determination on P1


Nickle and Dime is a beautiful two pitch route located on the left side of the sport routes. This route can take off from different locations. The most common start is from the high ledge where Kinethesis departs. From this ledge the route follows the arete on the left end of the ledge up past four bolts to large ledge w/ two bolt chain anchors. The alternate start is a Trad start from the next ledge below Kinethesis. From this ledge follow a large handcrack 15 ft to the Kinethesis ledge and then depart along the usual arete.
Pitch two climbs up and left from the anchors along good edges. The climbing varies depending on your line. Traversing left and right around bolts usually offers easier climbing. Climb past 6 bolts along the face to the high crux and onto the two bolt chain anchors.


10 Bolts, 2 Anchors, Optional Gear start

Photos of Nickel And Dime Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Laura on the 2nd pitch.
Laura on the 2nd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the top of Nickle and Dime
Looking down from the top of Nickle and Dime
Rock Climbing Photo: Random Climber at sunset on P2 of Nickle and Dime ...
Random Climber at sunset on P2 of Nickle and Dime ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Random climber finishing up P1 on 11/9/14 mid-day
Random climber finishing up P1 on 11/9/14 mid-day
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike does a do-si-do
Mike does a do-si-do

Comments on Nickel And Dime Add Comment
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By Zupan
May 20, 2014

Gorgeous, granite-like plated rock on p2.
By A.wilk Wilk
From: Olympia, WA
Nov 22, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A couple of hand size cams are more than enough to protect the traditional start. Tons of little rocks on top of P1 so be careful topping out and pulling the rope after rapping. I was a little confused as to where the line was around the 4th bolt on the second pitch. It seemed difficult to head straight up or right of the bolt so I ended up jogging up slightly left and staying there until the top.
By T Roper
Nov 29, 2014

The gear is for super crack of the slum, nickel and dime is pure sport
By scott rourke
Dec 28, 2014

First time cragging at West Rock this week and first time sport climbing in CT! Great winter sun trap and great rock. Someone did try to get into our vehicle and set off the alarm so be aware. I have to say that it felt really strange to be clipping bolts in New Haven.
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Dec 29, 2014

Stoked you enjoyed the routes, sorry to hear about the car incident... did you guys park over at the school and walk across the bridge?
By scott rourke
Jan 1, 2015

Yes we parked at the school and crossed the bridge. It was pretty funny because we were looking at each other saying something like "I wonder whose car alarm that is?" When we got back the rear of our borrowed SUV was up and wide open although the car was otherwise undisturbed. I mistakenly unlocked the car instead of locking it. Still, a great and unexpected cragging session in our home state. We'll be back!
By T Roper
Jan 1, 2015

I have forgotten to lock my car there before and wondered how fast I could get down there if I saw someone messing around with the car. Ahhhh, gotta love New Haven!
By JRM89
From: New Haven, CT
Aug 29, 2015

First climbing back in the US and had a lot of fun today. It was hard to find a route on P2 that looked properly 5.9, but I don't question the grade... just feel I was missing something around that 4th bolt!
By T Roper
Sep 7, 2015

Lots of zig zagging to make it 5.9. The bolts were put in to minimize rope drag and they were installed in more solid and less crumbly rock. If you stay within 6ft of the bolts there is only one distinct 5.9 Crux.
By Matthew Brode
Apr 14, 2017

West Rock classic! Tight bolts and proper belay spot makes for a great sport climb. Grade seems to be on point but the area could use a little TLC.

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