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The Prudential
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
El Funko S 
Finland S 
Full Premium, The S 
Half Premium, The S 
Hard Drive S 
Horned Behavior S 
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 
Machine Head S 
Measured Doses S 
Midget Tricks S 
Mission Accomplished S 
Nice Land S 
Practice, The S 
Prudential Crack T 
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished)  T 
Short and sharp S 
Soft Job S 
Soft Machine S 
Stoned Temple Pilot S 
Swedish Girls S 
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 
Unknown  S 
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 

Nice Land 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Esmond 4/01
Page Views: 1,614
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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This is a nice, technical 5.10a with a variety of styles and moves that will test your route and sequence finding abilities as well as your physical skills.

Belay from the eyebolt on the left side of the ledge or suffer the wrath of the cliff behind you.

The start can be done a few ways but basically do a few steep moves to establish your self on the steep slab and get your feet working. The climbing continues like this for a while till you approach the top and you get back in to some interesting, steeper moves to the chains. The last moves will test you, so don't count your proverbial chickens, so to speak.

The best warm up at the crag for sure.


Starts from the ledge that splits the left side of The Prudential. Walk left on the ledge to the end, and follow the bolt line above you up the steep slab, the route that traverses left from the ledge is Swedish Girls (5.10d).


9 bolts to quick clips.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 17, 2017
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Jul 27, 2009

A very fun and varied route. The crux is getting off the ground, or so I thought. There's also some fun and tricky moves in the corner near the top.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I thought this was a great route. I do think the start is a bit height dependent though. If you can't reach the good rail above the first bolt from the starting holds, then this route gets quite a bit harder than 10- in a hurry. I climbed it with a woman who is sub 5'4" and the moves she was doing were not the 10- moves I had the luxury of doing. Either way, this is a super nice route.
By S. Neoh
Apr 28, 2013

I recommend stick clipping 1st and 2nd bolt. The start felt harder than the crux on Finland to me. It is probably .11a or harder for anyone 5'5" or shorter.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 12, 2013

Great route. I enjoyed the various sections. I agree that the start is a little trickier for shorties - I could grab what I wanted from the ground easily. The crack midway up was fun and the top out was really cool. I'm surprised this wasn't called Finland.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Oct 14, 2014

The moves on this route are fine, but did anybody else find the bolt placements bizarre? Most of the bolts were placed a l-o-n-g stretch to the left rather than on the actual route itself. And the bolt at the overhang twelve feet below the final corner is a way-long reach. I'm not sure what "midsize" climbers (Hello S. Neoh!) do. Ed Esmond, the original ascensionist, must have arms like an N.B.A. shooting guard.
By S. Neoh
Oct 15, 2014

Nick, I was able to do some contortions (and stemming?) to make the moves near the top. The moves below the second bolt are/were darn hard for me. I do not know how to climb the first 12 feet or so at .10a.
By M Bageant
From: Cambridge, MA
Jun 29, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I also thought the start was easily 5.10d...just slightly easier than the start to Finland to the right. Yes, I am a shorty. Cheater stones probably help.

The rest of the route was actually quite nice! I did not find the bolts weirdly placed; though at first glance it looks like you have to climb far to the right, I stayed to the left/on top of the bolts, following some invisible holds, and found the journey to be pleasant and thought-provoking.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 5, 2015

"Invisible holds" — ha! (I must have somehow missed those.)
By ed esmond
Aug 5, 2015


not only do i have the "ape index" of Kobe Bryant, but i also have "x-ray vision."

ed "alligator arms" e
By Kes
From: Somerville, MA
Apr 15, 2017

Does this finish to the right of the arete (on the Finland anchors) or to the left of the arete?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 17, 2017

It doesn't share anchors with anything so if I'm understanding your question I'd say left.

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