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a1. The Uberfall - left
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Unsorted Routes:

Nice Crack Climb 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown, 1950s
Page Views: 3,679
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (70)
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This is about two moves off the ground. Once you ...

Description 

Follow the crack past the crux at a small overhang (easier if tall) to a stance. Move left and follow cracks and flakes to another overhang, then right up crack to large ledge and pine tree.
Descend by walking off right (faster) or left (as you face cliff).

Location 

At a short right-leaning crack in a corner, just right of Easy Keyhole.

Protection 

Regular Gunks rack. Tree at top for belay.


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Rock Climbing Photo: The base of Nice Crack Climb.
The base of Nice Crack Climb.

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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 14, 2009

Slick start (rock is slippery) leads to a nice climb. Try the direct start, once you go up the layback start go straight up rather than traverse right. It's a one move variation, but, it's fun.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 10, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Did this on top rope today and it was a bunch of fun. I liked it more than Laurel, another nearby 5.7 crack climb. Three sections of interesting moves.

  • *Update Oct 2014** -- This thing is getting super polished at the bottom, and from what I was told there's been at least one major leader fall/injury because of it. IMO it isn't worth leading with the risk.
By Dan Katz
Feb 23, 2017

I have never seen more polished footholds in my life, and I climb in Central Park.

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