Nez Perce Spire Rock Climbing
Nez Perce Spire
Nez Perce spire is on the south side of the canyon, between Shoshone spire and Blackfoot dome. It is characterized by its sweeping eastern slabs, long dihedrals in its south face, and a sharp, needle like summit. The rock varies in quality, as with any climbing in the Bitterroot. You will climb beautiful long straight in cracks, long dihedrals, aggro slabs, and good old Blodgett blocky choss. This formation is amazing and should be climbed a whole lot more.
To approach the Nez Perce Spire begin hiking the main Blodgett trail for a little under 2 miles, until you reach the first large talus field. Cross the creek to the beginning of the talus field below Blackfoot dome. Start up that talus field and through some trees until you run into a game trail. The game trail won't take you anywhere, it contours the slope the whole way. Using the game trail contour west toward Nez Perce, for about 50 yards until you are under the eastern slabs of Nez Perce. From there switchback up the path of least resistance until you are at the base. At the base you will pick up a sparce climbers trail. Follow this trail west along the base. You will pass a large cairn that marks the start of Workmens Comp.. To access Modern Home Environment and the Southwest Buttress, you must continue traversing west up a ramp. This can be confusing because there are a few ramps. The ramp you need to take for these climbs is the highest, smaller ramp that has a few junipers and a small pine tree growing. FYI: if you take the lower larger ledge all the way to where it cliffs out you will find a good bivy shelter with plenty of water.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 7.0 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Nez Perce Spire
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Nez Perce Spire:
Featured Route For Nez Perce Spire
A Modern Home Environment 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A3 PG13 Montana
: Blodgett Canyon
: Nez Perce Spire
A great route in an awesome location. Some great free climbing broken by sections of quality aid. The Falcon Guide for Montana is fraught with contradictions about the route and pitch breakdowns, if you choose to use it be forewarned... Begin on the same approach ledge as for the SW Buttress.P1: Begin in blocky, right facing corner by a juniper bush. Climb up the broken corner to a small ledge to the right of a live tree with bail slings on it. Belay near the tree. (5.9+ PG13)P2: Climb above...[more] Browse More Classics in Montana