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Ney Springs

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Stinkwater Wall 

Ney Springs Rock Climbing 


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Location: 41.25912, -122.33644 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 665
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kyle Sherby on Jul 22, 2015
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5.10A and a 5.8 crack

Description 

Crag off ney springs road with about 5 developed walls. The shade and higher elevation and easy access make it a good destination in the summer. Mostly mixed climbs with a few sport routes. Some of the rock is loose and dirty but there are some quality climbs.

BEWARE: snakes abound in this area. I saw a den of 3 rattlesnakes right under the climbs at stinkwater last time I was there, but they are around. There is also poison oak around the area.

Getting There 

Follow Ney springs road past a moderately rocky section until a pull-out to your right. You probably need 4 wheel drive past this spot. Hike up the road from here past the old stone house foundation and make a right at the pullout with the fallen tree. Through the bushes there is a trail going up the hill. After scrambling up that you should be at the main hiking trail that goes to the falls. Cross over the hiking trail into the big quarry of rocks. Follow the worn path through the rocks and up the hill to the climbing wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.1 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Ney Springs

Wendy's Cafe 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  California : Northeast California : ... : Stinkwater Wall
Route to the left of Stinkwater the follows right of the right facing dihedral. Fun climbing leads to a cruxy and fun roof with enough good holds to help you up....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Ney Springs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A 13A goes up the Arete and an 11A-B for up the fa...
A 13A goes up the Arete and an 11A-B for up the fa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stinkwater Wall
Stinkwater Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: These are the kind of bolts and hangers you should...
These are the kind of bolts and hangers you should...
Rock Climbing Photo: A 10A and 5.8 crack
A 10A and 5.8 crack

Comments on Ney Springs Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Stackfleth
Apr 22, 2017
Rock Climbing Photo: Stinkwater Area
Stinkwater Area



I am not sure where to start in regards to this climbing area. Ill start with the positive and go from there. Ney Springs is located in a pretty remote and beautiful area very close to the town of Mount Shasta. It is also right next to Fairy Falls which is worth a visit on its own. The crag gets lots of sun so youll want to visit either in the morning or during a cold afternoon. Another plus is you will likely be the only one climbing if you visit this crag. So lack of people and beautiful area is about all this crag has going for it at the moment. This is a mostly mixed crag so bring a rack and draws. Be prepared to clip highly questionable homemade hardware which I will discuss in a bit.

Before I continue on to discuss the cons of this area I would like to make the point that even a terrible crag can be made half decent with developers who have good vision, are not cheap, and are willing to do the work necessary to develop a semi worth while crag. That being said some people just should not develop routes.

Bad Bolts and Hangers! Nearly every route at this crag is protected with homemade hangers and cheap hardware grade bolts. This crag appears to be in a time warp. It feels as though your in the 60's or something where bolting was still undeveloped except that these routes were all put up post 90's and even quite recently. After having a run in with a local climber and bringing up the topic of the ghetto bolts I learned the locals are proud of their home made protection and even believe this makes then and I quote, "old school" and if you don't like the bolts then "don't clip them". I'm not sure what king of backward twisted response to a very legitimate concern for safety this was but I found it to be a profound reflection of the culture and small naive climbing community in the Shasta area.


As of 04/20/2017 a large percentage of the routes are seeping and oozing water. This should dry out eventually but the area has been getting above average rainfall and snow lately so it may take a while. The most classic 10A "stinkwater" is basically un-climable at the moment unless your into wet oozing semi vegetated routes.

The area is also quite chossy. Not necessarily death block chossy although there is some of that but more like brittle and friable rock. It is also quite dirty with moss and lichen. The area could clean up if more people climbed here however this is unlikely to happen for the above reasons.

There is a lot of poison oak! A super lot! So be careful it really is just about everywhere.

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