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Next to Nothing 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Chris Alber, May 1998.
Page Views: 1,680
Submitted By: richard magill on May 1, 2002

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  • Description 

    Just right of "Frothing Green" is "Next to Nothing".

    A pumpy line with three distinct cruxes, each successively harder than the last. The first crux is 11d, the next 12a, and the last 12b. Involves intricate stemming and lunging and some significant power at the last crux to avoid the barn door effect.

    There is a 2nd pitch.

    Per Aeon Aki: The second pitch of this route is a choss pile. It is sketchy if not flat out dangerous reaching the first bolt after the break and the slab that follows drops down to about 5.8 until a dirty, flaky exit sequence presents itself. Better to clip the Amazing Face chains and call it good.

    Protection 

    8 bolts.


    Comments on Next to Nothing Add Comment
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    By Chris Archer
    Oct 27, 2003
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    High in the grade for Boulder Canyon; difficult clip at crux.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 6, 2005
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    12b maybe, yes...But if this is 5.12b, how can Meteor Roadblock be 12a/b there is a relative mile of difficulty between them. I suggest that this route is the more honestly graded of the two.
    By Aeon Aki
    Administrator
    Apr 9, 2009

    The second pitch of this route is a choss pile. It is sketchy if not flat out dangerous reaching the first bolt after the break and the slab that follows drops down to about 5.8 until a dirty, flaky exit sequence presents itself. Better to clip the Amazing Face chains and call it good. Four stars without the second pitch.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Mar 5, 2013
    rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    I climbed this route many times since 1998. There are times when it hasn't seemed harder than 5.12b but this year it seems much harder to repeat than "Super Bon Bon" or "Shiny Dog". I beleive Chris Alber considered rating it .12c until Fred Knapp did it and called it .12b. I think I am inclined to call it 5.12b/c. It is very stout for .12b.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 4, 2013

    Burly little crux section that I thought was quite hard for 12b. The holds are bad. I didn't realize that there was even a second pitch which I did all in one with a 60 meter rope. Although, pitch 2 is a pile of choss, especially the licheny dirty slab at the top that has a sketchy move getting to the anchors. Do the first pitch, and clip chains to the right once you reach the ledge....
    By J. Albers
    From: Colorado
    Jul 20, 2017
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Super fun route. Very fun stemming section down low to cruxy little boulder problem on nice stone. Not sure I agree with Tony about the grade comparison between this and Meteor Rhoadblock because I came much closer to falling on Meteor than this, which leads me to believe that they are reasonably similar in grade, but I guess YMMV.

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