Newfound Lake Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Newfound Lake Ice - on the side of Mt Sugarloaf
A fun little ice crag with a few worth while lines... Actually all the climbs that regularly form are really nice , then there are some obscure mixed or less reliable routes that are worth doing if they are in, but not classics... Crowds can sometimes an issue on weekends but midweek its a nice secret stash... The biggest challenge is the parking situation which is often changing... The roads are narrow so parking on the sides of the road is out... There was a small parking area a little north of the cliff that was recently developed by the owner of the property... Word on the street is that the owners of the lot are cool with you parking as long as you ask... If anyone has more info on parking please post...
There are Two popular routes both of which hold a few variations between grade 3 and 4... There is also a nice grade 5 curtain when it is in good shape... Routes are all 1 or 2 pitches and finish in the woods... Double 60m ropes will get you down from all routes... You can also walk off to the left (south) but its much easier to rap...
The best part of the crag is that you don't have to drive far for fat consistent ice... Rumney is great but it gets too much sun to be reliable... Being east facing, Newfound only gets the cold early morning light and there for it forms well...
From south take exit 23 and head west on route 104 to the town of Bristol... At the town center take a right onto Lake st. (route 3A)... Follow this till you can take a left on to West Shore Rd.... Follow West Shore with the lake on your right till you see the ice climbs on your left (its a pretty obvious cliff at the top of a short steep hill)... Drive by the crag and the parking area is the next spot on the left... Ask Permission to park unless you know you can do otherwise...
From the north take exit 26 as for Rumney and head west... At the traffic circle Head south on Route 3A for a while till you see a sign for the town of Hebron (This is North Shore Rd.) Follow North Shore Rd. in to Hebron and take a left on to West Shore Rd... If you know where to park you will get there before you see the cliff otherwise drive by the cliff and turn around to find the parking...
From the parking spot walk 5 min south to the steep hill and up to the cliff...
[NOTE: In Feb 2017 we found a parking pullout about 1/3 mile (5-8 min walk) south of the crag, in the lake-shore side of the road. Neither house (on the immediate other side of the road) look occupied so we just parked. As it was plowed in 2017 (heavy snow year) 3, or maybe 4, cars could have parked there with wheels off the white road stripe. R Hall NH Admin. ]
Climbing Season For the * Ice and Mixed Climbing area.
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Newfound Lake
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Newfound Lake
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Newfound Lake:
Featured Route For Newfound Lake
WI3 New Hampshire
: * Ice and Mixed Climbing
: Newfound Lake
The line of weakness up the middle of cliff to the top... Really fun and typically fat...Climb up on to the slab and head for the corner of ice above... The difficulty of the crux steep section is very dependent on conditions... sometimes it feels 3+ sometimes a soft 3 but always cool... After the business of the corner the angle eases up and you can cruse moderate slabs and bulges to the trees and belay from a tree with fixed rap rings...There is a fun variation where you break left before the ...[more] Browse More Classics in New Hampshire
BETA PHOTO: View from a parking pull-out 1/3 mile south of cra...
Newfound in late season conditions (late March) wi...
By Jason Gates
Feb 4, 2015
HAHA I was wondering why this place seemed to get super cold forecasts... The wunderground weather link is attached to RANDOLPH NH, not Bristol :) I love checking the weather on MP.
By Russ Keane
Mar 2, 2015
This place is great! Bloodline is amazingly fat, long, and interesting... especially for a moderate (WI3) climb.
Fun day in a beautiful and peaceful setting!
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jan 12, 2017
Found Gear here last week. drop me a PM to claim or if you've heard tale of lost gear. Thanks
From: New York, NY
Feb 21, 2017
Approach coordinates: 43.6524, -71.7909. An easy trail that ascends to the crag.
By Robert Hall
Feb 24, 2017
When here Feb 24th, 2017. Couple of previous days of warm weather, and from all the photos the place usually is "thick" but we found pretty thin conditions (see photos). We also figured to get away from the crowds during "President's Day School Week".
Duofold was the only climb with reasonable ice, and that was only in the shadow of the rock. The top, which was a "foamy column", was pretty sketchy, as was the rock-mud-roots top-out to the rap tree.
Nice place....we'll be back.