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Abbey Normal 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg 1992
Page Views: 910
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Another nice technical route steeper than it looked from the ground and a bit pumpy.
A weird but fun crux half way up on underclings and weird feet. Very interesting moves and fun once you figure it out.
Another slabby part at the top made me think for a second before gaining the anchor.

Recommended if you like techy stuff.


Just left of Cow Patty (5.10a).


It seems this route has had bolts added. I counted 8, but the guide says 5 with the option of a TCU between the 2nd and 3rd bolt.I didn't need gear and found it well protected.

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By S. Neoh
Aug 11, 2010

Yes, it had only 4 or 5 bolts when I did it A WHILE BACK. Didn't think any of the runout was particularly bad.
Not nearly as nice as its newer neighbor, Cow Patty, so it gets 1.5 stars from me.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 11, 2010

My friend Jakob and I added a second pitch or extention to this route... We call it Bridge to Nowhere it goes at 5.9 or 9+ very fun climbing that affords a great view... when you link it, its 14 bolts to anchor and you can lower with a 70m rope or do 2 raps with a 60m...
By S. Neoh
Aug 11, 2010

Fantastic, Lee. Thanks.
In the Fall, we will haul our 70m rope up there and do Abbey Normal to Bridge in one push. And get on Cow Patty and Yellow Knife, the route.
I've only been to YK Buttress twice, had a good time both times.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 12, 2010

cool, let me know what you think :)

and do make sure you knot the end of your 70m cause im pretty possitive that it will get you down but ive only been on it with a 60m...

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