Follow the 2" sized crack through a bulge and sequential jams until you reach a comfortable rest ledge. From here, follow much easier climbing on generous holds to the anchor.
Start just right of wooden fence at obvious hand splitter running 2/3 way up the wall
Multiples of #1 and #2 camalot sizes. A #3 may be helpful. After the ledge rest, smaller gear is available as well. Bolted anchor.
Fun lead on a stellar hand crack
Working that jamming magic!
BETA PHOTO: Looking at New Yosemite from the base.
Karate-chopping my balding way up New Yosemite. Ti...
The quintessential NY shot.
Matt jamming past the crux
John leading New Yosemite
Enjoying the jams on a beautiful fall day.
John jamming crack on New Yosemite (5.9) at the Ju...
Michael Martin highstepping his way through the la...
New Yosemite (5.9), a Junk Yard favorite. (Jeff ne...
By Andrew G
Aug 18, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great crack to learn jamming on. The bottom will be a little wide, especially if you've got smaller hands, but it quickly narrows down just a bit to pretty much perfect hands.
Also: beware the sucker jug out left. Getting back into the crack from it is a bitch.