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Central Cottage Dome - North Face Area
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New World Order S 

New World Order 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rob Oravetz, David Caunt 1993
Page Views: 152
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 11, 2016

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This route is the middle of 3 sport-bolted routes on the middle of the north face proper. It is just right of the white streaks. Scramble up to a small but good ledge to belay from but without any anchor option...don't fall before the first bolt! All the bolts on all 3 routes are very hard to see at first, so start squinting!

Follow up green overlaps and then up the steepening wall through a sea of continuously small knobs. At 2/3rds height, the route angles left across a depression and then over a bulge to lower angle and the bolted rap anchor.


8 Bolts
A 70m rope really works best

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By Vlad S
Jul 12, 2016

Goggles and a wire brush are useful. There are a few moves towards the top of the pitch where you won't be in contact with rock much, just lichen and moss. It's a shame it doesn't get more traffic, since the movement is actually quite good and it's reasonably safely protected.
By Alex Shainman
From: Redlands, CA
Jul 12, 2016

I climbed here 4 days ago and it's not quite that bad...but yes please climb here more and do some scrubbing and the routes will become even better! It's not Medlicott quality but it's pretty good, plus it's afternoon shade!

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